January 2008 Archives

January 31st, 2008

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Erin Fetherson Spring 2008 -- "An Idea of Eccentric Glamor":


Rock Band Cheap Trick Models for John Varvatos:

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"We're not Has-Beens, we're Icons!"


Isabella Rossellini Stumps for Made In Italy Campaign:
"Isabella Rossellini stars in a new ad campaign called Made in Italy, an outreach to Americans to teach them about the quality and craftsmanship of Italian fashion beyond the big names of Prada, Armani and Dolce & Gabbana . . . 'Italian fashion is about luxury, comfort and clean lines,' says the model-actress. 'It's what America was longing for. French fashion is fanciful but not comfortable.'"


Designers Ponder the Needs of Consumers During Economic Turbulence:
"Designers are keenly aware that the fledgling economy probably will affect the fall season. Nanette Lepore says she's concentrating on figure-flattering silhouettes. 'I have to make things that women are going to want to wear a lot, what women are going to spend their money on, something, they'll get a lot of use out of - and that is not a tenty thing they'll wear three times.'"


A Hotel Room So Sweet You Can Eat It:
"Chocoholics beware! The Bryant Park Hotel in New York has a new room (the 2008 Godiva Decadence Suite) that is made entirely of chocolate . . . The mantle on the fireplace is made of chocolate, the table is made of chocolate . . . The sweet suite is a part of Godiva's special 'Ultimate Chocolate Fantasy' contest for Valentine's day."


Paris Hilton to Unveil New Footwear Line at Macy's:
"She will personally unveil her new line of Footwear on February 8, 2008 at the South Coast Plaza Macy's from 3pm to 6pm . . . all the shoes will have a signature pink sole - light pink for spring and summer; hot pink for fall and winter . . . Each box is composed of recycled materials and has convenient handles built right in, thereby eliminating the need for shopping bags and reducing waste."


Banana Republic Poised to Conquer London:
"Banana Republic's greatest strength is the high quality of its fabrics, making the clothes look far more expensive than they are and, in one or two cases, like specific more expensive clothes: the one shoulder, purple silk evening dress smacked of similar gowns by the high fashion French brand Lanvin, while the orange wallets with thick black stitching with a giant gold buckle bore distinct similarities to those by Chloé."


Madonna/Gucci Fundraiser Still in Question:
"If the charity Madonna is pushing Gucci to raise money for next week is actually registered anywhere in the United States, it's still not showing up on any official Web sites . . . The event -- called "A Night to Benefit Raising Malawi and UNICEF" -- is being held on the lawn of the United Nations, although the real merchandise push will be to announce the opening of Gucci's new flagship store on Fifth Avenue."


Introducing Karl Lagerfeld, The Teddy Bear Version:
"When I think of Karl Lagerfeld the words 'fuzzy' and 'wuzzy' don't exactly spring to mind. And yet that's what the toy makers at Steiff, the famous German bear factory, are about to turn Karl into... a stuffed animal! The iconic designer will be immortalised in teddy form, complete with dark glasses, a dark suit, high collar and logo belt buckle. That won't scare the kiddies much!"


Royal Canadian Mounted Police Seize Fake Bags/Designer Goods:
"The RCMP have seized more than $1 million in counterfeit goods, including false Gucci and Chanel handbags, bogus flatirons for hair, and iPods . . . In addition to 3,500 bogus Farouk flatirons, police recovered 1,000 counterfeit flatirons under the brand name GHD, a British company that does not sell irons in Canada. They also seized the counterfeit Chanel and Gucci handbags and the iPods."

January 30th, 2008

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Up Close With Alexander Wang:


Louise Vuitton Wants Your TV:
Ubiquitous high-end mass-luxury line Louis Vuitton has decided the best way to reach your wallet is to grab your attention by advertising on TV -- "The ads, dreamed up by the Ogilvy & Mather agency, with Christian Reuilly as creative director and Bruno Aveillan as director, will break February 15. They're set to run on select cable and satellite channels, and also on movie screens."


Online Clothing Sales Experience Tremendous Growth:
"Clothing, shoes and accessories make up the fastest-growing segment of the global online shopping industry and are now second only to books among the most popular goods bought on the internet, new research says . . . Among internet users, the highest percentage shopping online is in South Korea (99%), followed by the UK, Germany and Japan (all 97%). The US lies eighth at 94%."


The Dirty Little Secret of the Fashion Industry:
"Unlike the US, European Union legislation on labelling is weak. A Prada handbag assembled in a factory in China, which has its handle attached in a town outside Florence, can still label itself Made in Italy . . . 'Yes, luxury handbags are made in China,' Dana Thomas writes (in her book 'Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Lustre'). 'Top brands ... that deny outright that their bags are made in China make their bags in China, not in Italy, not in France, not in the United Kingdom.'"


Net-A-Porter Scores Exclusive Deal with Newly Revived Halston:
"This season, fresh off the runway will take on a whole new meaning -- and it could shake up the fashion system . . . The day after the (Halston February 4th) show, Net-a-porter will begin selling two of Halston's fall runway looks on its site, with same-day delivery in London and New York and anywhere else in the world the day after . . . 'We will go live within 24 hours of the show, with exclusive content of the show,' said Natalie Massenet, chairman and founder of Net-a-porter.com. 'The customers can log on and be the first women around the world to wear the new Halston.'"


Proenza Schouler Tells Fashion Blogs to Go To Hell:
"We just got an email, addressed to the FabSugar team but somehow sent to us, saying that FabSugar wouldn't be allowed into the Proenza Schouler show. Whether blogs should be let into big fashion shows is of course another issue, and one we're not prepared to wrestle right now - but we do find it funny that Jack + Lazaro's most useful fans are the bright young things . . . whose every outfit gets chronicled by us, by WhoWhatWear Daily, by pretty much the fashion blogs and no one else."


Ralph Lauren Inaugurates New Wing at Cancer Center:
"Since opening its doors in 2003, the Ralph Lauren Center for Cancer Care and Prevention in Harlem has had 34,000 patient visits, with more than 4,000 patients screened for colon cancer. On Monday, Lauren inaugurated a 2,700-square-foot endoscopy wing, which will enable on-site colonoscopies and other endoscopic procedures. The addition is the result of a $2.5 million donation to the center by the Polo Ralph Lauren Foundation . . . 'This is saving lives, this is real,' the designer added. 'This is a wonderful cause and I am proud to be a part of it.'"


Narciso Rodriguez Bucks the Trends, Celebrates 10 Years in Fashion:
"The future looks bright thanks to a new partnership with Liz Claiborne Inc. that gave his company an influx of cash, a spring line that won almost unanimously rave reviews and the loyalty of his customers who don't stray from his elegant, structured look no matter what the 'in' look of the season is . . . 'The women I dress are quite smart,' he says. 'They come to me for style, not trend. They'll get a dress that lasts, something that will be a part of their life a long time.'"

Check out Rodriguez's widely praised Spring 2008 collection below:

January 29th, 2008

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Go Fug Yourself: The Fug Awards:
The book penned by a celebrity stylist's most scathing critics is now available at Amazon. Do yourself a favor and order a copy today. I can't remember the last time I laughed so hard. And make sure you bookmark their website for regular visitation -- GoFugYourself.com


Undercover x Number (N)ine x Hysteric Glamour x N. Hollywood:
"Jun Takahashi of Undercover has just revealed a four-way collaboration between Undercover, Number (N)INE, Hysteric Glamour and N. Hollywood. The collaboration, named 'QUADROHENIA' (means someone having four different personalities) was originally initiated by legendary Japanese stylist Tsuyoshi Noguchi . . . On the 1st of Feburary, Undercover will release the first shirt in the collection for this dream collaboration between 4 of the most well-known and well-received hi-fashion powerhouses in Japan."

Talk about strength in numbers . . .


Glamor Was in Fashion at the SAG Awards:
"The Golden Globes red carpet was a victim of the strike earlier this month, so the SAGs, which normally are a less publicized event, received lots of attention and actresses pulled out dresses by top-tier designers."


When Even Wealthy New Yorkers Cut Back on Spending:
"For consumers with disposable income, the act of pinching pennies on everything from toilet paper to yoga classes has less to do with actually saving money and more to do with emotional health. Sure, being thrifty can help people save a few thousand dollars a year, but it can also help them regain some sense of control when the world seems topsy-turvy -- with stock markets around the world falling last week, brokerage firms announcing billion-dollar losses and those ubiquitous For Sale signs."

***And in a related article, The Canadian Press reports that Belt-tightening among wealthy U.S. shoppers could choke blue-collar households: "Economists say that recent signs of cutting back by the affluent could hurt the U.S. economy and deliver even more pain to lower-income workers, who are dependent on their business and fat tips . . . Cutbacks by the wealthy have a ripple effect across all consumer spending, said Michael Niemira, chief economist at the International Council of Shopping Centers. That's because American households in the top 20 per cent by income - those making at least $150,000 a year - account for about 40 per cent of overall consumer spending, which makes up two-thirds of economic activity."


Glitzy Club-Couture Label Heatherette in Limbo:
"In 2005, Heatherette took a reported $6 million from the Weisfeld Group, which also owns Fubu and Coogi, but when we asked Norman Weisfeld about Heatherette's "reorganization," he responded with a long silence before referring us back to their in-house PR. Heatherette's bold, fun look was popularized by the likes of Paris Hilton, Britney Spears and Kim Stewart, but industry watchers say the glitzy club couture never took off with retail customers."

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"Who's up for blowing the investors' cash on a pile of cocaine?"


Donatella Versace Steps All Over Louboutin:
"When President Andrew Jackson learned of the Supreme Court's decision recognizing Native American sovereignty in Wooster v. Georgia, he allegedly retorted, "John Marshall has made his decision; now let him enforce it!" It seems that Donatella Versace has taken roughly the same attitude toward Christian Louboutin's recent registration of his signature red soles as a U.S. trademark."


Retailer H&M Teams Up With Finnish Design House Marimekko:
"Finnish textile designers Marimekko have partnered with the Swedish manufacturer of disposable-yet-stylish clothing! Over 50 pieces will debut this spring, with patterns pulled from classic Marimekko collections of the 50s, 60s and 70s."


Crazed Mobs Destroy Textile Factories During Pakistan Riots:
"Six people were burnt to death and three seriously injured when a mob enraged by the assassination of former prime minister Benazir Bhutto torched a garment factory in Karachi . . . In a number of other disturbances at least five textile mills, over two dozen garment factories and more than 2,500 bales of cotton were also set ablaze in Sindh during the violence."

January 28th, 2008

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Does Alessandra Facchinetti Have What It Takes to Replace Valentino?:
"'Stepping into the shoes of a living successful designer is very difficult,' says Alexandra Shulman, editor of Vogue. It must be even more difficult for a designer who tried and failed to do this only two years ago during a brief and unsuccessful time at the helm of Gucci, and it must be even harder when the designer you are replacing is allegedly not all that eager to hand over the reins."


The Rebirth of Halston:
"Movie mogul Harvey Weinstein's Weinstein Company (TWC) bought (Halson) in a deal with private equity firm Hilco Consumer Capital, and Tamara Mellon, founder of the Jimmy Choo shoe empire, will oversee the relaunch, which starts with a show in New York on 4 February. Mellon will be helped by, among others, Hollywood stylist Rachel Zoe, who has dressed actresses including Demi Moore and Cameron Diaz."


Yohji Yamamoto Interview -- "I hate the world of fashion":
"Fashion sighs after trends. I want timeless elegance. Fashion has no time. I do. I say, Hello Lady, how can I help you? (but) Fashion has no time to even ask such a question. It is constantly concerned with finding out: What will come next? . . . I have to cope with a very important contradiction: I am the man who hates fashion but works in the fashion world."

CNN also has a recorded interview with Mr. Yamamoto regarding the progress of contemporary Japanese fashion. Click here to go to the interview.


Now that Anna Sui is suing 'Forever 21' and Diane von Furstenberg is suing Target, Stuart Weitzman has decided to jump on the fashion copyright infringement bandwagon and file suit against JC Penney:
"High-end shoe designer Stuart Weitzman is accusing JC Penney of infringing on its $215, patented peep-toe flat marketed as the "Chitchat." Weitzman is demanding the retailer destroy what stock is left of its Miss Bisou "Sydney" shoe, which retails online for $19.99. He also wants a judge to order that profits earned from the alleged copycat line be handed over to him."

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Penney's cheap, trashy twin is the one on the right.


Top Designer "IT" Bags Aren't So "IT" Anymore:
"Like the restaurant that no one goes to anymore because it's too crowded, some fashion-conscious shoppers are turning away from the top labels in search of hot bags that other people don't have . . . 'The 'it' bag isn't important any more,' says Stephanie Solomon, women's fashion director at Bloomingdale's. 'It's all about looking different from your neighbor.'"


The Rebirth of Couture:
"The most telling sign of a couture revival occurred backstage after the Dior show, where staff were overjoyed as yet another couture client - the 17-year-old daughter of a Russian millionaire - ordered seven bespoke Dior outfits . . . Furthermore, Armani Privé has taken to flying its seamstresses to clients for in-person fittings, where a five-dress-per-season order is considered the minimum to qualify for such elite customer service, and Valentino Couture boasts one client who orders a mindboggling 25 to 30 new dresses each season."


Retailers Hopeful Over Economic Stimulus Package:
"The $150 billion economic stimulus package House leaders reached with the White House Thursday should give a boost to retailers this summer by injecting fresh cash into the hands of consumers, although retail stocks lagged behind broader gains on Wall Street."

January 26th, 2008

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Ann-Valerie Hash Spring/Summer 2008 Couture Show:
"This season, Anne-Valérie Hash dedicates her Haute Couture collection to Love - a feeling exclusively expressed through sheer silk tulle. Cut in "millefeuilles gourmands", from invisible to opaque and all gauzy nuances, tulle is expressed in all its forms. Anatomical cuts, futuristic construction and meteoric fractions, remain ultra-light. Sheer "cage-like" sleeves, constellations of flexible pyramids, edges as sharp as cut diamond."

See the collection below:


Yohji Yamamoto Due to Open Two NYC Stores in February:
"The designer's retail rollout continues: On February 5, Yohji Yamamoto is opening not one but two stores in Manhattan's Meatpacking District. One is a 1,500-square-foot space devoted solely to his eponymous line--the city's first such shop in 20 years--while across the street will be a 2,100-square-foot Y-3 boutique, NYC's first."


Lego Turns 50:
"On Monday, Lego is 50. The tiny building blocks have entertained more than 400 million adults and children, inspired artists, and changed the lives of countless future architects and designers . . . 'I didn't play with Lego as a child, but my wife's grandchildren love it. The hardest thing is understanding the structure of it. Once you've got the hang of that, it's fantastic,' said Designer Paul Smith. 'The thing with Lego is that it's really basic and from it you can make things that are amazing.'"


Elie Saab Spring 2008 Couture Show:
"Lebanese designer Elie Saab has made it very clear that when it comes to out-and-out glamour, he's your man. So when couture season comes to town, you know that at his show, you're going to be in for the glitziest and most embellished ride of your life."


Tattoos Claw Their Way Up the Fashion Food Chain:
"Fashion has been infiltrated, with heavily tattooed models popping up in advertising--most recently in a print campaign for Juicy Couture fragrance. Ed Hardy clothing, a line of casual gear photographed on Madonna, Kevin Federline and Snoop Dogg, is based on the designs of Don Ed Hardy, the "godfather" of modern tattooing . . . Further up the fashion food chain, Balenciaga designer Nicolas Ghesquière has employed tattoo imagery on T-shirts and in his spring 2008 collection."


Top Designers Create Sustainable Fashion:
"Pure & Natural(TM) announced its sponsorship of FutureFashion, an eco-friendly runway show geared toward raising awareness about the need to use sustainable materials in the fashion industry. This season's show will feature one-of-a kind creations from top designers including Behnaz Sarafpour, Bottega Veneta, Burberry, Calvin Klein, Derek Lam, Diane Von Furstenberg, Donna Karan, Doo.Ri, Giambattista Valli, Givenchy, Isabel Toledo, Jil Sander, Marc Jacobs, Marni, Martin Grant, Marti, Michael Kors, Moschino, Narciso Rodriguez, Prada, Ralph Lauren, Rodarte, Rogan, Stella McCartney, Thakoon and Versace, among others."

January 25th, 2008

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The Fashion Emperor's Last Show:


Jimmy Choo Co-Founder Tamera Mellon Sues Her Mother:
"The co-founder of the Jimmy Choo shoe boutique beloved by celebrities filed a lawsuit on Wednesday against her estranged mother, seeking $10 million in damages stemming from the 2004 sale of the business . . . Mellon said in a statement that she had been forced to take legal action after trying other means to settle the dispute. 'I am baffled by my mother's refusal to return assets which rightfully do not belong to her,' she said."


Ralph Lauren/Penney's Collaboration a Case of Bad Timing:
"Gleaming white fixtures lovingly stacked with tasty traditional products beacon the Penney's customer who aspires to trade up to a fine way of life . . . At prices 10-35% above J.C.Penney's previously highest priced brands (Izod, Liz & Co.), what seemed like a perfect marriage and a great strategy turns out to be a case of really bad timing in light of the current economic situation."


Gaultier Goes Deep for 2008 Couture Show:
"The madcap couturier yesterday set his spring/summer 2008 collection in an underwater paradise peopled by raunchy sea-sirens and saucy sailors. This was the cue for a tidal wave of mermaid dresses, conch shell bustiers, fish-net tunics and gloves and tights hand-painted with sea monsters. Even the stiletto shoes were painted with fish scales."

Catch the underwater mystery tour below:


Diane von Furstenberg Sues Target Over Alleged Knock-Offs:
"Fashion designer Diane von Furstenberg's company sued Target Corp. (TGT) on Thursday, alleging the discount retailer is selling dresses that too closely mimic the pattern from one of her signature dresses . . . 'Specifically, defendants' infringing dresses nearly identically copy the scale, pattern and colorways of DVF's Spotted Frog Design,' the lawsuit said. 'Defendants' infringing dresses are 'wrap' dresses made of materials designed to look like silk jersey, a style consumers and the general public have come to associate with DVF.'"

Earlier, DVF, along with 20 other design firms, initiated a lawsuit against the cheap-chic chain 'Forever 21' citing similar infringement issues. Sounds like Fashion Designers aren't accepting imitation as flattery any longer.


Coach Struggles with Weak Economy, Declining Consumer Spending:
"'This quarter demonstrated for the first time in our public history we are not immune to a slowing consumer environment,' Coach's chairman and chief executive, Lew Frankfort, said on a conference call . . . "My own view is that we're already in a consumer recession -- We do need a tax stimulus package,' he added, suggesting that this week's cut in US interest rates was not enough alone to boost spending."


Gucci Bags Snatched from Charity Shop:
"Callous thieves stole three designer handbags in broad daylight from the Barnardo's charity shop on London Road . . . Manager Melanie Connor said, 'They took the Gucci handbags, but left a Versace and a Chloe. They weren't visibly flash, so I think they were stealing to order' . . . Chairman of Alderley Edge Parish Council Mary Maczkowiak said: 'Stealing from a charity shop is beyond the lowest of the low.'"


Moschino Opens New Flagship Store in Beijing:
"The shop in Beijing displays the new design concept, with the theme of fairy tales, bringing customers a band-new shopping experience that can rarely be experienced in China. A heart-shaped handle, one of the symbols of Moschino, opens the door onto a space of pale, luminous color that transforms the classic furnishings into the main characters of a tale set in an enchanted forest."

***Meanwhile, Beijing's biggest counterfeit market launches its own brand of merchandise, 'SilkStreet', and warns everyone not to counterfeit it! : "This is chutzpah on a grand scale. Anyone who comes to Beijing as a tourist knows that the best address in town for getting knock-off North Face jackets, fake Armani belts and copied Louis Vuitton handbags is Silk Street . . . Now poacher has turned gamekeeper. In a display of astonishing cheek, Silk Street has launched its own brand of ties and scarves - and warned counterfeiters not to try and copy the new brand."


Private Equity Firm Scraps Tommy Hilfiger IPO:
"Apax Partners blamed the growing stock market turmoil today as it pulled the $3 billion to $4 billion (£1.5 billion to £2 billion) float of Tommy Hilfiger, the US designer clothing label, one day before management was due to meet potential investors. The private equity group, which bought the business for $1.6 billion three years ago, said that market conditions were too "volatile" to determine a price."

January 24th, 2008

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Valentino's Final Show Receives 5-Minute Standing Ovation:
"Valentino managed not to cry as he took his final walk down the runway of a custom made white tent in the garden of the Rodin Museum. Not so his audience, which gave him a five-minute, tear-stained standing ovation after presenting his spring 2008 collection, bringing to a close a 45-year career."


Super-Rich Spurn Mass Luxury, Choose Couture Instead:
"Le Figaro recently reported that sales were up 40 per cent at Lacroix and 30 per cent at Givenchy; since 2006, production at Chanel has apparently risen by 20 per cent . . . Armani's audience (for his latest haute couture show) on Monday was up by 15 per cent from last season, flooded by new initiates from Russia and the Middle East . . . 'The reality of ready-to-wear is the rapid turnover of 'It' items which are replaced as fast as they are consumed by still more easy-access, aspirational looks. Haute couture preserves a woman's mystery,' says Lady Amanda Harlech, one of Karl Lagerfeld's collaborators."


Balenciaga Designer Nicolas Ghesquière to Receive Award of Merit:
WWD is reporting that Balenciaga designer Nicolas Ghesquière is to receive an award of merit from the French government. On Tuesday, he will be decorated as a Chevalier of Arts and Letters by luxury titan François Pinault, owner of Balenciaga parent PPR, in a ceremony at Balenciaga headquarters in Paris.


Lagerfeld Ditches Heels for Flats in Chanel Haute Couture Show:
"What Karl Lagerfeld decrees has ramifications across the fashion world, and at Chanel's beautiful haute couture show in Paris this morning, this most influential of designers ordained that flat shoes should be worn with everything -- even evening dresses . . . The shoe in question -- a slender-toed Mary Jane with a single strap -- came in every permutation imaginable, from simple black patent to sparkly silver bouclé, each matched according to the model's outfit."

You can watch the video of Lagerfeld's latest collection below:


Giorgio Armani Exhibits Explosion of Color in Paris:
"'Couture needs a bit of a shake-up, no?' Armani enquired backstage before his collection took to the silver catwalk before an A-list audience . . . The starting point, Armani explained, was Surrealism, but not the surrealism of, for example, Dali; rather in the deliberate juxtaposition of pieces which would not, at first, appear to go together."

Watch the video of Armani's couture show:


L'Oreal Makes an Offer for YSL Beauté:
"French cosmetics group L'Oreal said Wednesday it has made a firm offer to French luxury goods group PPR SA to acquire the shares of YSL Beauté . . . Under the agreement, L'Oreal would obtain an exclusive and very long-term worldwide license for the use of the Yves Saint Laurent and Boucheron brands in the category of perfumes and cosmetics . . . The company would also take over the licenses for the Stella McCartney, Oscar de la Renta and Ermenegildo Zegna brands."


Dolce & Gabbana Designers Miffed at Valentino:
"Valentino Garavani was reflecting on his 50-year career and on his rivals when he dismissed Dolce & Gabbana as 'shy to begin with, but now rather arrogant' . . . Stefano Gabbana, 46, one half of the label that now has an annual turnover of over £700 million, said: 'Valentino has been having goodbye parties since last July. I've been working.' He added: 'To be quite honest, I don't care what Valentino says about us.'"

Funny, but I think Stefano Gabbana's comments only serve to prove Valentino's point . . .


Burlesque Queen Von Teese Parlays Retro Image into Wonderbra Contract:
"Lingerie brand Wonderbra has signed a deal with burlesque star Dita Von Teese to develop a limited edition underwear collection. Dita is the brand's first ever celebrity guest designer for an exclusive lingerie range, and her collection, which is inspired by 1940s styling and vintage lingerie fashion, will be launched in the UK and France in September 2008."


Kirsten Dunst to Create Clothing Line:
"Kirsten Dunst is set to collaborate with cashmere label Lutz + Patmos to create a new capsule range . . . Lutz + Patmos have previously collaborated with celebrities including Liv Tyler, Julianne Moore and French Vogue editor Carine Roitfeld."


World's Third Largest Luxury Firm Sees Slowdown in Growth:
"Richemont, the world's third largest luxury goods firm after LVMH and PPR, follows Tiffany in cautioning that it is seeing a downturn in the US . . . Richemont said it had enjoyed good underlying growth in October and November but that in the final month 'demand in the US and Japan slowed somewhat' . . . The American firm saw a 2% fall in sales with a far bigger downturn at Christmas than Wall Street had expected."


India Luxury Market is All Hype and No Substance:
"Recently, I met executives of a European luxury brand who bemoaned that international standardised luxury retailing space is non-existent here. 'How can we create luxury on streets that resemble a ghetto?' they asked . . . India has no concept of a luxury street. Five-star hotels are often the only choice for luxury brands, but these arcades attract only limited footfalls and create negligible impact."

January 23rd, 2008

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Christian Dior Haute Couture 2008 Video:


Christian Lacroix Exhibits Haute Couture Tour de Force in Paris:
"Christian Lacroix pulled off an exuberant tour de force with his summer haute couture collection on Tuesday, which was a riot of colour and brimming with gowns in which to get noticed . . . every single number was a testament to the level of workmanship and perfection that is the hallmark of couture."


Two Overcome by Fumes at Donna Karan Store:
"Two people fell ill because of an odor at Woodbury Common Premium Outlets yesterday afternoon, according to Orange County Emergency Services Commissioner Walter Koury . . . Hazardous materials crews from Orange County and the U.S. Military Academy at West Point responded to the scene, he said. Woodbury firefighters and ambulances also responded . . . The incident unfolded at a Donna Karan store, Koury said."


Despite High-Profile Designer Collaborations, Target Loses Market Share to Wal-Mart:
"Target, known for its cheap chic fashions and limited offerings from designers such as Proenza Schouler . . . has suffered from declining traffic as economic concerns sent budget-conscious shoppers to its larger discount rival Wal-Mart Stores . . . Sales are expected to be near the low end of Target's forecast range of a 1% decline to 1% increase."


Pamela Anderson Wishes Anna Wintour a Violent Death:
Pamela Anderson sees nothing contradictory about agitating for cuddly, furry animal-rights while wishing hideous death and dismemberment on a fellow human being, namely Anna Wintour. In a recent interview with The Guardian, Anderson had this to say -- "Question: Which living person do you most despise and why? Answer: Anna Wintour, because she bullies young designers and models to use and wear fur. Question: Who would you invite to your dream dinner party? Answer: Jack the Ripper and Anna Wintour." Of course, this is the same Pamela Anderson who wore Uggs for years without a clue that they were made from sheepskin . . . with less than brilliant "advocates" like this, it's no wonder fur is making a comeback.

***Meanwhile, hot designer Giambattista Valli has launched a new fur line to complement his clothing collections. "The market is very receptive and open to fur these days, especially when it's treated in a new and modern way," said Valli.


Swatch Experiences Double Digit Growth:
"Switzerland's Swatch Group, the maker of Omega, Swatch and Breguet watches, on Friday said "outstanding" double-digit growth in Asia and the Middle East drove its full-year sales ahead a better-than-expected 17.6 percent . . . Meanwhile, it predicted that strong market conditions for high-end watches would continue this year."


Made In America is Good for St. John:
"With almost 4,000 employees based mostly in California, St. John is among the leading single employers in Orange County. Its all-American image, which at times has hurt business, is now seen as an asset in the luxury market. 'The Made in America label is really important for St. John,'' said CEO Glenn McMahon (former president of Dolce & Gabbana USA) . . . 'We are also not as vulnerable to the fluctuations in currency, meaning we've been able to hold our price position for St. John in a more consistent range, while a lot of European luxury brands have seen pretty dramatic increases.'"

January 22nd, 2008

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YSL's Video Menswear Show:


Retiring Valentino Blasts Corporations for Destroying Fashion:
"Business has ruined the fashion industry with young designers creating the same things, designer to the stars Valentino said on Monday . . . 'The world of fashion has now been ruined,' the 75-year old, who became a byword for glamour, told Il Messaggero newspaper. 'I got rather bored of continuing in a world which doesn't say anything to me. There is little creativity and too much business. The young are all doing the same things.'"


More is Less in Galliano's Dior Couture Show:
"The clothes are masterpieces of construction . . . but extravagance to the nth degree, no matter how gorgeous its components, can turn oppressive. In fall's Bal des Artistes and last spring's ravishing ode to Japonica, Galliano avoided that trap to perfection, transporting his audience to worlds of wonder. Here his impassioned pursuit of more just felt too much."


Over 20 Fashion Designers Sue Cheap Knock-Off Chain 'Forever 21':
"More than 20 designers are suing Forever 21, including Diane Von Furstenberg--she of the famous wrap dress--who claims that the 21'ers knocked off not just her styles but the very prints she employs . . . Anna Sui is also livid about Forever 21 ripping off her designs, and she's suing as well."


Temperley is Hollywood's Fashion Flavor of the Season:
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"There's a British invasion on the red carpet and the initiator is Temperley London . . . The red carpet is thriving thanks to Eva Mendes, Sarah Michelle Gellar, and Halle Berry, who have all chosen designer Alice Temperley's eye-catching, feminine and intricate creations for recent events."


U.S. Experiences Sharp Drop In Textile/Apparel Output:
"Data released by the U.S. Federal Reserve yesterday showed that U.S. Textile Mill output fell sharply by 12.1% in 2007. The drop in output was the largest since the U.S. government began publishing output data on the topic in 1972. From its peak in December 1997, U.S. Textile Mill output has plunged 44.85% . . . US trade groups, such as the American Manufacturing Trade Action Coalition (AMTAC), believe the decline in US output is directly tied to 'a flood of subsidised imports, especially those from China.'"


Jimmy Choo to Introduce Sunglass and Fragrance Lines:
"Jimmy Choo is planning to expand the brand into sunglasses and fragrances . . . The group's diversification beyond its core footwear offering has already proved successful, with a long waiting list for a new Saba handbag to be launched in 2008 . . . (For 2007), Sales were up 27% in the UK and 23% in the United States. Sales in continental Europe were up 53%, where Jimmy Choo is a relatively new luxury brand."


The Secret World of Haute Couture:


Economic Downturn May Force Luxury Retailers Onto the Internet:
"Tightened budgets may well shift efforts toward Web-based marketing, according to Milton Pedraza, CEO of The Luxury Institute, Greenwich, Conn. 'If [luxury brands] were shy about the Internet, they need to focus on that area now,' he said . . . At Saks Fifth Avenue, New York, for example, the marketing department is exploring the idea of advertising in foreign magazines to draw more tourist dollars into its doors. The retailer also plans to offer international shipping on its Web site."


Las Vegas Sands Opens Shoppes at Palazzo With Star Studded Gala:
"Anchored by an 85,000 square foot Barneys New York, The Shoppes at The Palazzo also hosts Chloe, Tory Burch, Christian Louboutin, Diane Von Furstenberg, Van Cleef & Arpels, Anya Hindmarch, Poleci, Lambertson Truex, Phillipe Charriol, Edidi, Piaget and Michael Kors. Numerous stores will open their doors to the public for the first time on Friday, with the remaining stores opening over the course of the next several weeks." Opening Festivities were a star-studded, blow-out affair.

January 21st, 2008

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Move Over Lagerfeld -- Valentino Gets His Close-Up:
"Directed by Vanity Fair special correspondent Matt Tyrnauer, the documentary 'Valentino: The Last Emperor' will chronicle the 45-year career of the Italian icon on the eve of his last haute couture show, set for Wednesday at the Rodin Museum in Paris. For his feature debut, Tyrnauer spent about two years shooting more than 250 hours of footage of the man and his entourage."


"There's a lot of people who say, no one can replace you."

***In related news, Valentino Company Renews Focus on Menswear: "Valentino management, after successfully repositioning women's wear and accessories, is now ready to focus its attention on developing a viable men's business . . . 'The number-one message is that Valentino will now look at men's wear just as it has looked at other important projects in the past,' said Graziano de Boni, Valentino's president of worldwide sales, marketing and retail."


Will Luxury Retail Growth Hit the Wall in 2008?:
"The average amount spent by affluent consumers on luxury dropped 21 percent to $12,142 in the third quarter from an average of $15,283 in the second quarter, marking the steepest decline since the fourth quarter of 2004 . . . 'A lot of luxury consumers are the leaders, the movers and shakers, the people with corporate responsibilities and the entrepreneurs,' says Unity founder Pam Danziger. 'Their investment portfolios are taking a hit. They're feeling the effect of the weaker dollar.'"

***Lauren Goldstein Crowe at Portfolio.com comments: "Rich Americans know that with the dollar sinking to new lows every day, they're getting less for their money when it comes to products from Europe. And, even if they can afford it, people who earned their money don't like to feel it is being wasted."


Galliano Goes Apocalypto for Paris Mens Show:
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For his eponymous Men's LIne, the head Dior Designer tosses up "a touch of sadism, savageness, primitivism, plague and dark inquisition . . . It leaves the impression of a real fashion inquisition, made complete by body painting, blood and ropes from a fresh guillotine, which was surely the highlight." The Paris Menswear shows ended Sunday with displays by Dior Homme, Lanvin and Paul Smith, while woman's RTW and Couture shows are scheduled to begin Monday.

***Related news: The Most Popular Menswear Designers: "Dior Homme, Dolce & Gabbana and Paul Smith were rated the three most popular designers for men, according to a poll conducted among fashion buyers by the Journal du Textile. Next in line came DSquared, John Galliano and Kris Van Assche in that order."


Mass Production Has Destroyed Luxury; Couture Will See a Revival:
"'Over the last 10 years, luxury has spread out. The term has lost some of its meaning,' says Nicolas Topiol, ceo of Christian Lacroix in today's WWD. 'That's why haute couture is becoming more and more attractive. As wealth is growing, there's an interest in being more exclusive and not seeing products worn by a large number of people. Couture is very alive; as a very high-end segment of the market, it is very legitimate today, probably even more than ten years ago.'"


Continuing Writers' Strike May Wreak Havoc on Oscar-Dependent Designers:
"There's no other place to wear these high-end dresses and showcase them," says Sahar Sanjar, an L.A. publicist who handles celebrity dressing for several international designers. "Every designer wants to be on the red carpet and not be robbed of the opportunity, because the whole world is watching . . . Red-carpet exposure was the ticket to instant recognition for such big names as Randolph Duke, Vera Wang, Narciso Rodriguez, Monique Lhuillier, as well as Mr. Saab, the Lebanese designer."


Alberta Ferretti, Jean-Paul Gaultier Make the Move to India:
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"High-end French and Italian luxury brands like Alberta Ferretti and Jean-Paul Gaultier will enter the Indian market by March this year . . . 'Jean Paul Gaultier will be introduced in India in the first quarter of 2008 and will have two standalone boutiques in New Delhi as well as Bangalore,' TSG International Marketing Founder and CEO Charu Sachdev told PTI. India would also witness the launch of Alberta Ferretti's first flagship store in the first quarter this year."

Despite Inflation, China retail sales surge 17% in 2007:
"China's retail sales, the country's key gauge of consumer spending, surged 17 percent in 2007 amid spiralling inflation that has fuelled fears of social unrest, state media reported on Sunday . . . Inflation in China hit an 11-year high of 6.9 percent in November, the most recent month for which data has been available, according to official statistics, propelled by a nearly 20-percent rise in food prices."


Gay Erotica Foundation Launches First ID-Required Men's Fragrance:
"In the U.S., consumers will have to prove they're 21 years or older to purchase Tom of Finland, the new men's fragrance created by the Tom of Finland Foundation and its fragrance licensee -- Etat Libre d'Orange. (In other countries, the age cutoff is to be 18.) The reason the scent, due out starting in the end of February, won't be accessible to people of all ages is that its outer packaging can be opened to reveal a (sometimes racy) sketch by artist Tom of Finland, a pioneer of hyper-masculine gay imagery."

January 19th, 2008

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The Death of the "IT" Bag:
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"Much like the popular pretty girl who always dies first in a horror film, the 'it' bag was a victim of its own ambition . . . 'There's a backlash because women feel betrayed by the fact that a company calls a bag 'limited edition' and then makes 100,000 of them,' says Milton Pedraza, chief executive of the Luxury Institute, a retail research firm in New York. 'That's deadly.'"


300,000 Counterfeit Handbags Seized, Chinese Nationals Arrested:
"Assistant Attoney General Alice Fisher was quoted by CNN saying, 'This was a sophisticated criminal conspiracy that trafficked millions of dollars of counterfeit goods from China, profiting off the backs of legitimate companies and their hard-working employees' . . . Custom agents started investigating this scam five years ago. The raids occurred within the past two days across the country netting the fashion criminal masterminds in New York and Las Vegas."


Luxury Group PPR Head Francois-Henri Pinault Tops Richest Couples List:
"Mexican beauty Salma Hayek and businessman beau Francois-Henri Pinault have been judged as Hollywood's Richest Couple, in a poll conducted by In Touch Weekly. It was the pair's combined fortune that made them win. Pinault's luxury goods company PPR, which owns Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent, is said to be worth over 14 billion dollars."


Mass Luxury Retailers in Trouble:
"Executives at luxury retailers such as Saks, and high-end brands ranging from Coach to Karl Lagerfeld, are bemoaning the disappearance of free-spending shoppers . . . Coach saw its eight-year growth streak come to a screeching halt during the holiday season (and Saks Fifth Avenue) reported that sales at stores open for a year or more slowed to a miniscule 0.8% gain in December, compared with a 25.7% increase in the previous month . . . 'There has to be some rethinking from luxury retailers right now, because the lower end of the high-end market has evaporated,' says Brian Bethune, an economist at financial analysis firm Global Insight."


Gucci Movie On Hold During Writer's Strike:
"The film about the history of Gucci looks like it will definitely go ahead -- as soon as the writer's strike is over. Giannina Facio, (Film Director) Ridley Scott's Costa Rican wife and the producer of the biopic film, revealed more details about the project on Wednesday night at Salma Hayek's dinner for Sergio Rossi creative director Edmundo Castillo . . . Facio, who consults her director husband in all decisions about the movie, revealed that although the film is definitely going ahead, casting has not yet begun."


Lagerfeld Celebrates 25 Years as Head Designer at Chanel:
"'They said, 'Oh, [Coco] Chanel would be shocked to death!' But they didn't want the homage - the respectful shit - either,' he told The New Yorker earlier this year. 'So to survive you have to cut the roots to make new roots. Because fashion is about today. You can take an idea from the past, but, if you do it the way it was, no one wants it.'"


Hillary Avoids Vogue on the Campaign Trail:
"Rumors swirled back in November that Clinton had chosen not to sit for the magazine at this time, though she had posed for Annie Leibovitz back in 1998 at the White House, and in 2003, after she became a New York senator. This time around, Clinton supposedly left the fashion pack in the lurch after deciding that an appearance in the magazine might make her seem too "elitist" or "too glamorous" for voters."


Yohji Yamamoto Introduces New Mid-Price Collection Called 'Coming Soon':
"Spanning jeans, T-shirts, outerwear and accessories for women and men, the 350-piece line bears the Japanese designer's imprint -- quirky fabrics, mannish tailoring -- but with a discreet circle of white stitching, the only visible branding on garments . . . Channeling an urban tomboy spirit, the women's line features mix-and-match basics ranging from crumpled jackets, loose "boyfriend pants" in unwashed Japanese denim, parkas, preppy Oxford shirts and college-stripe blazers."

January 18th, 2006

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Children's Designer Clothing Sales Soar, Outpacing Adult Retail:
"The concurrent trends of older moms and dads and an increase in dual-income families mean that many boomer parents are not only richer but also ready to spend lavishly on their little darlings . . . European high-fashion brands like Dolce & Gabbana, Chloé, Missoni and Marni all sell miniature versions of their adult ready-to-wear pieces. Come summer, Alberta Ferretti, known for her flirty chiffon dresses, will launch Alberta Ferretti Girls through a licensing deal with Grant SpA, a manufacturer that also produces Moschino's children's line. Meanwhile, bad-boy British designer John Galliano has teamed up with Italian manufacturer Diesel to launch a pint-size collection next fall."


Woman Sentenced for Selling Fake Designer Bags on eBay:
"A Northfield woman won't be going to jail after pleading guilty to charges she sold more than $100,000 of fake designer handbags and other accessories on eBay. Prosecutors says the 28-year-old (Jenny Donahue) sold fake Hermes bags to a California woman for $4,100, a New York woman for $1,050 and a Texas woman for $2,250 in 2004 and refused to refund the money when the bogus bags arrived . . . Prosecutors had asked for a prison term but the judge denied it because Donahue has young children."


Burberry Baseball Cap Leads Police to Criminal:
"A thug who stabbed a man five times in a race-hate attack was trapped by his Burberry baseball cap. Craig Collins, 21, dropped the hat as he ran off leaving his victim bleeding from serious wounds, including one which pierced his bowel . . . And he was tracked down through DNA found in it."


Donatella Versace Says Russian Women Aren't So Into Bling Anymore:
"Gone is the tendency towards ostentation and 'bling'. Instead, today's Russian women are in search of something more sophisticated. At a cocktail party I held at my Moscow store, I was greeted by many extremely well-dressed customers; but two stood out. They had a great freshness and confidence, and were dressed in a modern and understated way. It turned out that they were the granddaughters of Mikhail Gorbachev."


Vidal Sassoon Turns 80:
"Sassoon, labelled 'the Chanel of hair' by 60's icon Mary Quaint, created many hairstyles that have lasted through the decades. Sassoon is credited with creating the modern bob hair cut which is still popular today. Sassoon is also famous for creating the pixie crop that Mia Farrow sported in Rosemary's Baby, another hair style that was copied worldwide."


Miu Miu Discontinues Men's Wear Line:
"Miu Miu has discontinued its men's wear line to focus on strengthening its women's business, whose sales have more than doubled in two years, hitting $297 million in 2007. The spring 2008 men's collection will be the last to be manufactured and sold by the Prada-owned brand."


True Religion Sees 76% Growth in Fourth Quarter Sales:
"True_Religion Apparel is expecting to report net fourth quarter sales of US$52.4m, an increase of 75.9% from $29.8m in the same period last year, and predicts further growth in its next fiscal year . . . 'Our record fourth quarter and year ended 2007 sales growth reflect the strength of our expanded product assortment and continued growth in our consumer direct business,' said Jeffrey Lubell, chairman and chief executive officer of True Religion."


Milan Fall/Winter Menswear Shows Ditch Trendy for Comfort and Elegance:
"Jean Paul Gaultier has challenged gender roles in the past by putting men in skirts and makeup. This season, however, even the most respectable British gentleman would feel comfortable in his collection of classic pinstriped suits and houndstooth jackets . . . At Yves Saint Laurent, there was an unfussy elegance to 70s-flavored collection of crushed velvet jackets, wide cuffed pants and Indian silk scarves . . . Front-row guest Joshua Jackson said he was happy to find grown-up clothes after the recent fad of rock star skinny suits. 'I can actually put this on and not feel like I'm in shrink-wrap,' the actor said, pointing to his Vuitton jacket."


Veronique Nichanian Celebrates 20 Years With Hermès Menswear:
"Over the years, she has seen the Hermès man become more contemporary, as he evolves with time. 'Today, men are more spontaneous,' she says. 'They are less sensitive to social codes' . . . Nichanian has been credited for moving menswear away from classics, an observation that was made during the Hermès' spring/summer 2008 collection presentation. She is also credited for having the ability to pick strong colours for each collection."


Valentino Opens First Boutique in China:
"Italian fashion house Valentino has taken a first step into China with the opening of a boutique at a Beijing hotel, to be followed by an own-brand store in May, the company said in a statement . . . The boutique -- officially inaugurated on Wednesday -- is in the Peninsula Palace Hotel."


Nina Ricci Follows Burberry's Lead With Focus on Accessories:
"Since Olivier Theyskens joined Nina Ricci as creative director in 2006, its catwalk collections have enjoyed critical acclaim and everyone involved is keen to focus on capitalising on this renewed interest in 2008 - particularly in the lucrative arena of accessories, where a hit bag design now has the potential to catapult brands to megastar status . . . 'Olivier began the resurrection, and now it's time to take it to the next place,' Mario Grauso, president of Puig Fashion Group, confirms in today's WWD. 'We're really getting focused on this brand. Accessories are a big project.'


Hot New Designer Alexander Wang Blogs for Elle Magazine:
"Elle.com is giving a stylish soapbox--ie a guest blogger role--to designer Alexander Wang. You may know him for his sumptuous knits and downtown M-O-D staples, but after a few quick reads you'll grow to appreciate the qualities that I admire most--including stellar wit, boundless energy, and excellent taste."

January 17th, 2008

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High-Income Women Fear Recession, Shop for Bargains:
"Almost a third of women who shopped at Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus or Saks Inc in the last three months also shopped at Target, while 11.6 percent of them went to Wal-Mart Stores Inc, the survey found . . . Nearly 41 percent of women surveyed said they have become more practical and realistic about their purchases over the last six months."


Rolling Stone Richards Stars in New Louis Vuitton Campaign:
"WWD is reporting rumors that Richards recently posed for a Louis Vuitton ad in New York. While he may be more ubiquitous in music magazines, like the cover of Rolling Stone with Johnny Depp . . . Richards has his fair share of fashion connections. His wife is model and one-time Vogue covergirl Patti Hansen."


Hollywood's Loss May Be London's Gain:
"Traditionally, the fashion houses hold back their best dresses for the Oscars. But Annabel Tollman (fashion director of Interview magazine and stylist to, inter alia, Scarlett Johansson and Amy Ryan) reckons that this year could be an exception: 'I think we'll see a lot of dresses that were designed for the Globes turning up at the Baftas (British Academy of Film and Television Arts)' . . . Armani is likewise on the case. 'Look, having an actress in your dress, clutching an Oscar, is obviously the pinnacle - it makes an iconic picture,' says Robert Triefus, the company's head of communications. 'But there is no doubt that with the Oscars in jeopardy, the Baftas will probably be bigger - they should up their ante.'"


Evian Teams With Christian Lacroix for Couture Water:
"The "prêt-à-porter" bottle features a clear, classicly shaped European water bottle decorated with a detailed, highly sophisticated white pattern. The "haute-couture" version, on the other hand, doesn't feature any printed art. Instead, it feature intricacies in the actual bottle design, the final product resembling an elaborate ice sculpture. Only 99 couture bottles were made and will be auctioned off for charity."


Unfashionably Late Beyonce May Cause Bergdorf Men's To Cancel Versace Order:
"The New York Post reports that a minion kicked Bergdorf Goodman's men's fashion director out of his seat at the runway show in Milan in favor of one of Beyonce's bodyguards. Tommy Fazio then asked to be escorted to the door and canceled his Versace showroom appointment for the following day. Does this mean the store is going to drop the label? The Post says, yes."


China Looking Less Attractive for Garment Production:
"The country is starting to look less compelling as a sourcing hub as rising wages, new labour laws, worker shortages, the appreciation of the yuan and higher exporting costs all begin to bite . . . Pressure is coming too from rising raw material costs, largely driven by surging oil prices. The Australian drought has pushed wool prices up to almost double the level of three years ago."


Balenciaga Takes Full-Control of its Business in Japan:
"he fast-growing fashion house, part of Gucci Group, has acquired the 51 percent of Balenciaga Japan previously owned by Restir, the retailer that had been its joint venture partner since 2006. Financial terms were not disclosed . . . Gucci Group sees significant further growth potential for Balenciaga in Japan."


Kurt Cobain's Daughter Rumored to be New Chanel Spokesmodel:
"Rock Royalty and daughter of Courtney Love and passed Nirvana front man Kurt Cobain, Frances Bean, the girl with possibly the world's coolest ancestry, is said to be the next in CHANEL celebrity endorsers, accepting an offer to promote the label in 2008. The fifteen year old, who recently denied rumors she is dating Jack Osbourne, is said to be "overwhelmed" by the prospect, but looks forward to "what the CHANEL experience may offer."


Valentino to Receive French Medal of Merit:
"The mayor of the City of Light is to award Valentino with the Grand Medaille de Vermeil de la Ville de Paris, the equivalent of making him an honorary citizen of the French capital . . . Valentino, who dressed Jacqueline Kennedy in her wedding with Aristotle Onassis, was the first major Italian designer to show his couture collection in Paris."


Prada IPO On The Books For Mid-June '08:
"Prada SpA's initial public offering, one of the most anticipated in the global fashion industry, is currently scheduled for mid-June, despite signs that U.S. economic turmoil is spreading to Europe's luxury goods sector, a person close to the matter said."

January 16th, 2008

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Isaac Mizrahi Hired to Revive the Floundering Liz Clairborne Line:
"By signing on with Liz Claiborne, the award-winning designer is also ending his contract with Target Corp. He had created the powerful Isaac Mizrahi for Target collection, which has been a magnet in driving customer traffic to its stores and helped solidify Target's niche in cheap chic designs since its inception five years ago."

Rumors are circulating that Target is in talks with Scottish designer Jonathan Saunders to design a new collection for their stores. Saunders would be following in the footsteps of Erin Featherston, Alice Temperley, Proenza Schouler, Luella Bartley, Loeffler Randall and Jovovich-Hawk.


Wearing Too Much Perfume May Be A Sign of Depression:
"'Our scientific findings suggest that women who are depressed are also losing their sense of smell, and may overcompensate by using more perfume,' explains researcher Prof. Yehuda Shoenfeld, a member of the Sackler Faculty of Medicine at Tel Aviv University."


Burberry Experiments With Accessories-Only Store:
"Burberry is testing a new kind of store that may help it weather a cooling economy . . . the store -- named 'Icon' after Burberry's higher-end ranges -- is crammed with accessories. Rows of sunglasses flank the entrance from floor to ceiling and shelves fairly drip with shoes, scarves and handbags . . . Perfumes, watches and jewellery crowd the till area."

Meanwhile, Burberry shares took a 16% hit on Tuesday despite reporting double-digit growth in earnings for the last quarter -- Stacey Cartwright, chief financial officer of Burberry, offered future earnings guidance that was on the low side for the rest of 2008 and into 2009 due to the projected economic slowdown, and investors pulled out in a hurry.


Diane Von Furstenberg Wants Hillary for Prez:
"I like Obama very much -- and I would of course support him if he were the candidate -- but I do think that Hillary is a better candidate at this moment."


YSL Chooses YouTube Over the Catwalks of Milan:
"(I)nstead of unveiling the collection in the tradition way--elevated walkway, lots of cameras, Anna Wintour in the front row -- (Stefano) Pilati (head designer for Yves St Laurent) has decided to show it off on the big screen . . . the video features British actor Simon Woods as the collection's only model." The 7-minute video-presentation will be screened at a January 16th party for select fashion press and retailers, and will be made available for broad viewing the next day.


Asia Is World's Largest Luxury Market:
"Asia is now the world's biggest market for luxury goods, accounting for 37 percent of the 80-billion-dollar sector . . . Versace recently announced plans for a nine-store expansion in China and Hong Kong by the end of this year, from the current five. At last count, Hermes had seven stores in Hong Kong compared to just three in Paris and two in New York. Gucci has eight outlets in the southern Chinese city, compared to three in Milan."

Gucci and Prada At Odds in Milan Menswear Shows:
"The Gucci collection presented Monday evening is laden with details gleaned from Russian folklore -- from richly embroidered silk shirts to oversized fur outerwear. Models with tussled hair walked the carpeted runway in super soft leather riding boots, carrying a large bag, a gilded chain belt marking the waist of the tapered trousers, a colorful shawl tossed across the shoulder. Military jackets with brass buttons and velvet collars -- White Russian in exile style -- abound . . . On Sunday at Prada, the idea was what you see is not what you get -- starting from the shirt, which was worn back to front, and closed with a cummerbund which at times doubled as a skirt. Just to further confuse the issue, a shirt front was flattened by a huge bib and some collars came in pairs."

Roberto Cavalli opted for elegance in his own Milan show, stating that his Fall/Winter collection was "for a man who doesn't need to find himself in eccentricities". Costume National presented a clean, fresh collection that fashion critics called "thoroughly wearable". DSquared2 showed a tough, punk-influenced collection while Salvatore Ferragamo was all about cool sophistication.


Worst-Dressed or Not, UK Vogue Thinks Beckham's Hot:
"Victoria Beckham is to appear on the cover of Vogue - just days after a US fashion critic named her the worst-dressed star of last year. Posh, 33 - who is pals with designers Roberto Carvalli and Marc Jacobs - will also be featured on half a dozen spreads inside the April UK edition of the style bible."


Radical South African Search Engine Focuses On Brand Logos:
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"Company director Rob Sawyer says the Superlogos concept started from a "squiggle" on a pair of shoes. 'Only 18 months later did I recognise it in a shop on New Bond Street, it was Salvatore Ferragamo's logo. Realising that the internet is only of benefit if you know the name of what you are searching for, and given the amount of time, effort and finance that go into company branding, this globally prompted me to look further into searching for specific things via images and logos. I couldn't. No site represents company searches by logo. I was flabbergasted,' he says."


Luxury Retailers Hit Hard by Slowing Economy:
"Shares of Coach Inc. and Polo Ralph Lauren Corp. slid to new 52-week lows Monday as a Goldman Sachs analyst downgraded the luxury retailers due to ongoing concerns about an imminent recession . . . 'As sales momentum slows, promotional activity increases, category growth slows and input costs increase, we are concerned that we could see operating margins contract from peak levels," he wrote.'"


LG's Prada Phone Goes Silver:
"It will take more than the iPhone for Europeans to give up on Prada. Even with a price tag approaching $900, more than 700,000 of the touch-screen designer handsets have reportedly been sold . . . Aside from the overhaul to the phone's faceplate, LG has also added a virtual Qwerty keyboard alongside the standard phone key layout offered by the previous model."


Valentino Garavani's Final Couture Collection Scheduled for January 23rd:
"JANUARY 23, the third day of the spring/summer 2008 season of Haute Couture collections, will see Valentino's final goodbye to the world of fashion after a phenomenal 45-years at the top . . . Next week's show - in the Rodin Museum on the Left Bank - we're told by a house spokesperson "will be a grand collection, a grand show, somewhat unique with a lot of gowns."


New Brides Requesting 'Trash The Dress' Photo Shoots:
"For a new breed of bride there is a new tradition...trashing the dress. Apparently they've asked themselves why they are saving the dress that likely won't ever be worn again and quite possibly won't even be seen again once it's been cleaned, preserved, boxed and stored away in a dark corner of the attic or basement . . . Think along the lines of laying on a sandy beach with waves crashing over you. Or perhaps jumping into a pool and having pictures taken of you in your gown while underwater . . . this trashing of the dress isn't for the faint of heart but it can result in some spectacularly original photographs."

January 15th, 2008

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Spice Girls Liven Up Cavalli's Milan Men's Show:
"The Spice Girls were out in full force during Milan Fashion Week, making a surprise appearance on the catwalk alongside their favourite designer Roberto Cavalli . . . The girls, who are in the midst of their world tour, paid tribute to the popular Italian designer, who was unveiling his Fall/Winter men's collection. The group are no strangers to his handiwork - Cavalli was hand picked by the singers to create costumes for their comeback, which began late last year."


Loeffler Randall Dips Into Swimwear:
"After launching as a shoe brand in fall 2005, adding handbags in fall 2006 and rolling out ready-to-wear in fall 2007, the young designer line is unveiling swimwear this March."


Champs-Elysées is Third Most Expensive Retail Location in the World:
"Rents on the street increased 8.7 percent last year, according to a study by Cushman & Wakefield, which said the avenue is the third most-expensive retail location in the world, after Manhattan's Fifth Avenue and Causeway Bay in Hong Kong. Average rent on the Champs-Elysées is $814 a square foot, the most expensive in Europe."


Madonna Accused of Duping Donors At Gucci Charity Bash:
"Pop superstar Madonna has jumped to the defence of her charity after reports surfaced that she had duped the likes of Gucci into giving money to Kabbalah under the pretext of supporting Malawian children . . . But speculation had been mounting that proceeds from the event would actually benefit the religious organization, rather than the orphans the charity had pledged to help."


US Artist Richard Philips Creates Limited Edition Jimmy Choo Bags:
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"The latest designer to step on the (artist collaboration) bandwagon is Jimmy Choo! The hugely successful accessory label has teamed up with US pop artist Richard Philips to produce two limited edition clutch bags. These bags feature vibrant prints from (Philips') archives including 'Riot' and 'Nuclear'!"


Auto Makers Look to the Catwalk for Color Trends:
"Runway season is "the time when we're actually trying to confirm our own design forecasts," Hall said. "But we're also looking for big trends of what collectively the fashion designers are doing, whether that's transparent overlays or more pastel colors or darker colors or whatever it might be." Hall attended about 10 shows in September, including those by Carolina Herrera and Helmut Lang."


Writers Strike Squeezes Fashion Houses:
"It's no longer just a writers' strike," says Billy Daley, vice president for global communications at the privately held Michael Kors (USA) Inc. "It's an entertainment-industry issue, which means it's a fashion issue because they are so intertwined . . . Some young designers who were trying for Golden Globes exposure this year will swallow the expense of having aspired to red-carpet glory. After working for Bill Blass and Oscar de la Renta, 29-year-old designer Rubin Singer launched his own label in New York a year and a half ago. He devoted about $20,000 and hours of work to constructing dresses he hoped might be worn by celebrities. The cancellation quashed what could have been Singer's big break."


Zac Posen and DHL Offer Tote for Teachers:
"For every one of these limited-edition Zac Posen totes sold, DHL will donate 100% of the proceeds to TeachersCount, a 501(c)(3) non-profit organization dedicated to creating a permanent culture of teacher appreciation."


Is Your Handbag Bad For Your Health?:
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"Chiropractors have this week released reports saying they were seriously considering issuing a medical warning after seeing a noticeable increase in the number of 'heavy handbag related injuries' . . . Tim Hutchful of the British Chiropractic Association told The Daily Mail: 'The problem with carrying a heavy bag is that while it may not cause you an injury at the time you carry it, over time it has a cumulative effect, and we're certainly seeing more instances of back pain triggered as a result.'"


Ted Baker Sees Tidy Increase In 2007 Retail Revenue:
"Ted Baker Plc, the fashion designer whose clothes were worn by James Bond in 'Casino Royale,' said eight-week revenue rose 13 percent as store openings in the U.K. and U.S. helped offset a slowdown in consumer spending . . . Ted Baker shares rose 5.9 percent in London."

Shares of Polo Ralph Lauren slid downward on Monday after analysts at Goldman Sachs downgraded the stock from Buy to Neutral.


Nike Cleans Up Its Air Jordan:
"The Air Jordan XX3, unveiled with considerable fanfare this week, differs from its predecessors because is the first basketball shoe shaped by what Nike calls "Nike Considered," an approach to design that favors environmentally-preferable materials, reduces toxic chemicals and curbs waste . . . 'This shoe is constructed from the ground up, different from any other basketball shoe before it,' said Tinker Hatfield, a Nike vice president who has designed more than half of Air Jordan line since they were introduced in 1985 . . . For example, instead of chemical adhesives, the shoe is 'fit together, almost like a jigsaw puzzle so it interlocks.'"


Bottega Veneta Unveils Fall/Winter 2008/09 Men's Line in Milan:
"The collection is dominated by neutral grey tones . . . freshened by shiny materials and ties with patterns, while casual combinations show how men's fashion freshness can be reached by putting together leather jackets, bags or hats of the same colour . . . The collection often featueres buckled jackets or coats in two lines that gives a precise dose of elegance along with clothing objects. There are also interesting combinations of fine coats with and jeans or fingerless gloves."


John Varvatos Set to Open Boutique in Former CBGB Club Space:
"'It's definitely going to be a little bit of a museum for rock and roll,' he says of the store, at 315 Bowery in Manhattan. 'I have to do business there, but it's not going to dishonor what was there . . . I want people to experience ... some vibe of what was in the space,' adds Varvatos, himself a rock fan. 'There's not a lot left of what was in the space, but what we create will feel like it's been there.'"

January 14th, 2008

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Valentino Spring 2008 -- Garavani's last Ready-To-Wear collection:

Valentino is scheduled to present his final haute-couture show in Paris later this month.


Lars Nilsson Presents His First Collection for Gianfranco Ferre:
"Lars Nilsson, hired to head designer Gianfranco Ferre after the founder's death last year, broke with tradition and used a presentation instead of a catwalk show on Sunday for his first collection . . . Ferre, known for his skilful tailoring and trademark white shirts for men and women, died after a brain hemorrhage in June 2007. Nilsson promised a catwalk show for his first womenswear collection which will show in February." Men's Fashion Week in Milan runs from January 12th through the 15th, showcasing menswear for winter 2009. Altogether 47 brands are participating.

Burberry opted for a minimal, elegant look in their show in Milan. Follow the link for Burberry's 2009 Winter Menswear collection.


Designers Distressed Over Low-Key Golden Globes:
"The cancellation of the Golden Globes annual frockfest is a major blow and, if other award shows are cancelled, it could become a fashion catastrophe. Valentino estimates that Julia Roberts's appearance in one of its gowns at the 2001 Oscars - the year she won Best Actress for Erin Brockovich - was worth $25m in media coverage . . . The real losers are new and smaller designers. Chanel can whack a few ads in Vogue if it's worried about its media profile. But the free coverage given by the red carpet is irreplaceable for young talent. No one would have heard of labels such as Marchesa, Zac Posen and Roland Mouret without pictures of Renée Zellweger, Natalie Portman and Scarlett Johansson which raised the labels' profile from odd mentions in fashion magazines to front-page news."

Los Angeles counts the cost of Golden Globes cancellation:
"Tom Kolovos, who also dresses stars, warned: "The biggest losers are the young designers like Zac Posen. Getting Gwyneth Paltrow in his dress last year got him a lot of publicity. It's like taking free ads out internationally for a month."


Diane Von Furstenberg Tackles Footwear:
"Her first shoe collection will consist of twelve different looks based on strength, support, and style. One of the styles, the power pump, is being renamed the CEO heel . . . The soles, which are made of rubber, will be stamped with the DVF logo . . . The collection will be available some time in February and will be sold in Diane von Furstenberg boutiques, specialty and department stores. Price will range from $195- $400."


Fashion Institute of Technology Stages Christian Louboutin Exhibition:
"The first exhibition to examine the career of this influential designer, Sole Desire: The Shoes of Christian Louboutin, will be on view at The Museum at FIT March 13 through April 19, 2008 . . . The exhibition will showcase examples of Louboutin's work from the collection of The Museum at FIT and the archive of Christian Louboutin. Not only will it highlight his innovative designs, but it will illustrate his understanding of clientele and his contributions to contemporary fashion."


Calvin Klein Names Robert Vignola as New President of Calvin Klein Collection:
"Vignola was most recently president and chief executive officer at Judith Leiber LLC, where he was the driving force behind many of the changes implemented to revitalize the accessories company. He left Leiber last February to consult to private equity firms . . . Before Leiber, Vignola had been executive vice president at Burberry North America, and had held senior positions at Hartmarx Corp., GFT Corp. and Polo Ralph Lauren."


Photos of the New Ann Demeulemeester store in Seoul, Korea:
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"Diverse interior spaces designated for its three main programs were made to be perceived and utilized as a part of the outdoors in a variety of ways. This building is not meant to be just another 'object' to be experienced externally, but rather as a synthetic organism of nature and artifice." You can find more photos of the recently completed shop at the website of architect firm Mass Studies.


Jovovich-Hawk Lines Up For Low-Price Target Release:
"Now Jovovich-Hawk is joining the likes of Patrick Robinson, Proenza Schouler and Libertine (in the U.S.) and Stella McCartney (in Australia) with a lower-priced capsule line (around $34.99!) for Target, due in stores for Spring '08 . . . "Our Target line will have all our classic pieces: smock dresses, tunics, minis, all vintage-inspired, great prints," Jovovich said. "We took the things that sold the best for us but we're doing it on a bigger scale. To be able to do it with a big company that can afford to do it for a good price so that real girls can afford it. That's the reason we were interested."


Jimmy Choo Opens New Boutique on Rodeo Drive:
The new stand-alone boutqiue includes a private fitting room and a cocktail bar -- the store opening was a celebrity event that functioned as a benefit for the EIF'S Women's Cancer Research Fund. Jimmy Choo will see openings in Las Vegas, Barcelona and Cannes later this year.


Iconic French hair designer dies aged 85:
"Alexandre de Paris, whose salons at chic addresses in downtown Paris continue to draw an up-market clientele thanks to a lifetime of collaboration with the biggest names in French 'haute couture', has been buried in his home town of Saint-Tropez on the Cote d'Azur . . . the French fashion world spoke of him in the same breath as Coco Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, Hubert de Givenchy, Pierre Balmain or Jean Paul Gaultier."


Spring 2008 Shoe Trends:
"Oxfords (brogues) are still in, as are platform pumps; Croco and animal prints are still warm, but moving out; patent and satin are still in, fabrics getting stronger moving towards the summer; black, yellow, pink, white and neutral (beige) are the most popular colors; in patterns, polka-dot and flowers will creep in slowly as Spring advances."

January 12th, 2008

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Kate Bosworth Featured as New Face of Calvin Klein:
"Kate Bosworth has been named the new face of Calvin Klein in its spring jeans ad campaign. The 25-year-old actress will be featured with CK Man fragrance face Garrett Neff in a series of graphic ads shot in Los Angeles . . . The images are set to launch internationally with more than 35 countries in plan. The print and outdoor media is timed to coincide with the February issue of different magazines."

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Meanwhile, worst-dressed-list topper Victoria Beckham has been selected for the new Marc Jacobs ad campaign, Maggie Gyllenhaal will be the new face of Agent Provocateur, Jennifer Connelly lands Balenciaga and Ashton Kutcher replaces Sienna Miller as spokesmodel for Pepe Jeans.

Lagerfeld Endorses Hillary Clinton's Sense of Style:
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"My favorite is Ms. Clinton because you have no real idea what she is wearing. She is so clever and so brilliant that you see only her face -- but also what she wears is right, you never really look at it because one is fascinated by her intelligence. But there is never a gimmick or bad detail either."

Gucci Group CEO Robert Polet named European Businessman of the Year:
"Robert Polet, whose dynamism has helped turn around luxury goods company Gucci Group, has been named as European Businessman of the Year by Fortune magazine, the high-profile U.S. publication said in a statement . . . Polet, who took on the role of chief executive at the world's third-largest luxury group in 2004, has brought many of its leading brands such as designer Balenciaga and jeweller Boucheron into profit."

Mulberry Taps Jonathan Kelsey to Design Footwear:
"Jonathan Kelsey, London's most sought-after shoe talent (and cousin of former creative director, Stuart Vevers), has designed a five-piece capsule collection of riding boots, pumps and "shoots" to debut at Mulberry's London Fashion Week autumn/winter 2008-9 presentation . . . "Footwear has always been part of our business plan," says Mulberry's chief operating officer, Lisa Montague. "We loved Jonathan's autumn/winter 2007-8 collection and thought his energy and design ethos he would be an excellent fit for our brand."

Donna Karan Launches Pre-Fall Handbag Collection Inspired by Astrology:
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"It makes sense -- I live by astrology," she said in an exclusive preview of the collection on Wednesday. "I am a Libra. I can't make up my mind. We never find a balance. We like it all." . . . Her latest collection of handbags loosely takes its cues from the Zodiac system, and in the first pre-fall season, the groups are named Leo, Virgo, Pisces, Scorpio, Aries and Libra. Each embodies qualities associated with the sign: Virgo's bags are solid and grounded, Leo's are full of confidence and extravagance and Scorpio's have a sense of self and fearlessness."

Luxury Designer Labels Sue UK Retailer Over Water Damage:
"Three designer labels are taking court action against retailer Brown Thomas, after a sprinkler system allegedly damaged stock . . . Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent and Estee Lauder have taken separate court actions following the accidental setting off of a fire sprinkler system in the store."

Hello Kitty Introduces A Line of Products For Men:
"The cute, cuddly white cat from Japan's Sanrio Co., usually seen on toys and jewelry for girls and young women, will soon don T-shirts, bags, watches and other products targeting young men . . . The feline-for-men products will go on sale in Japan next month, and will be sold soon in the United States and other Asian nations, according to Sanrio."

Guess Experiences Buoyant Christmas, Ups Its Profit Forecast:
"Clothing and accessories company Guess Inc has increased earnings guidance for its retail division after it experienced healthier than expected Christmas holiday trading . . . Guess said its retail business in North America had delivered a double-digit same store sales increase for the five weeks ended 5 January - on top of another double-digit increase for the November 2007 period."

US Economy Tanked In December -- Most Retailers Report Drop In Sales:
"The weakest holiday shopping season in five years ended dismally for most retailers, whose sales tumbled despite deep discounts and extended store hours, stoking fears that the economy is tipping into a recession . . . Sales fell across the board, knocking down once seemingly invincible chains like Target (down 5 percent compared with last year); Abercrombie & Fitch (2 percent); Nordstrom (4 percent); and Kohl's (11.4 percent) . . . Same-store sales fell 8 percent at Limited Brands; 7.5 percent at J. C. Penney; and 6 percent at Gap."

Katherine Heigl Glitters in Bill Blass for '27 Dresses' Premiere:

Greg Gutfeld is Sick Of Celebrity Sickness:
"I'm not knocking people when they're down, but I'm tired of hearing about how Cameron Diaz's obsessive compulsive disorder means she can only use spotless $100 bills when buying a Fendi bag for her dog."

Amen.

January 11th, 2008

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French President Sarkozy to Wed Former Supermodel Carla Bruni:
"After weekend reports that a wedding is planned for early February, Mr Sarkozy joked that it was not up to Sunday papers to set the date. However, "there is a strong chance that you will learn about it after it's already done," he told a press conference at the Elysée palace."

Burberry is a Bright Spot in a Dismal Retail Landscape:
"Analysts at JP Morgan believe that Burberry, the luxury fashion brand, is now one of the few attractive retail investments amid a sea of gloom . . . The broker upgraded Burberry to overweight from neutral, arguing that the forthcoming third-quarter sales update on Tuesday should be very positive."

Check out Burberry's Spring/Summer 2008 collection below:

Hip-Hop Artist Pharrell Williams Teams Up With Louis Vuitton -- Again:
"It's been four years since Pharrell Williams teamed up with fashion house Louis Vuitton to create a line of designer sunglasses, and now they're back working together again; this time creating a range of high-end jewellery . . . Named Blason (a French word for a coat-of-arms representing a dynasty), the line will be inspired by music and will feature white and yellow gold with diamonds. They won't be cheap, with prices ranging from $2000 to a whopping $620,000."

2007 Film 'Atonement' Wins Top Dress Award:
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"The emerald green dress worn by actress Keira Knightley in Atonement has been voted the best film costume of all time. The bias-cut, backless silk gown had fashion editors raving when it first appeared on screen last year. It was voted top in a survey by Sky Movies and In Style magazine . . . Marilyn Monroe's white dress from The Seven Year Itch, worn as she stood over a subway grate, was second. The little black Givenchy dress worn by Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany's was third."

Valentino Announces New Menswear Designer:
"Valentino, the Italian fashion house whose founder will present his last collection during couture week in Paris this month, on Wednesday named Ferruccio Pozzoni as its new head of menswear . . . Pozzoni's first collection for Valentino will be presented on January 18 during the menswear shows in Paris."

The Worst Christmas Ever:
"On Christmas, Isabel C. Catano of Sag Harbor left a $2,500 Gucci pocketbook in an unlocked car while she ordered food at China Garden on Montauk Highway. When she returned it was gone. A Palm Treo cellphone, $1,200 worth of Lancome and Clinique makeup, an inhaler, a checkbook, $800 in cash, a Coach wallet, and Tom Ford sunglasses worth $400 were inside the bag."

January 10th, 2008

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US recession jitters drag European market shares lower:
"France's PPR, the owner of luxury Gucci Group and sportswear maker Puma, sank 5.3% even after Chief Executive Francois-Henri Pinault said the group expects much better 2007 results and further gains in 2008 despite a US slowdown and downbeat comments from British chain stores."

Victoria Beckham tops Blackwell's 2007 worst-dressed list:
(Amy Winehouse, Karl Lagerfeld's latest muse, comes in second)
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"The fashion critic has named the Spice Girl as the worst-dressed star of 2007 in his annual round-up of celebrity fashion victims. "In one skinny-mini monstrosity after another, pouty 'Posh' can really wreck-em," Blackwell said of Beckham."

It's a baby boy for Stella McCartney:
"Furniture company CEO Alasdhair Willis and designer Stella McCartney, 36, have welcomed their third child. Originally due on New Years Day, Beckett Robert Lee instead arrived on the morning of Tuesday, January 8th in London."

Weakening U.S. Dollar forces luxury retailers to restrict sales of popular handbags:
"On its face, the policy sounds odd; that is because it really doesn't have anything to do with popular demand. Rather, it is the fear that foreign buyers, taking advantage of the severely weakened United States dollar, will hoard the bags, then resell them in Europe or Asia, where the same items in Prada and Gucci stores typically cost 20 to 40 percent more."

Perry Ellis International expands into Women's Fashion:
"Men's wear firm Perry Ellis International is breaking back into the women's apparel business by buying C&C California and Laundry by Design from Liz Claiborne Inc. for $37 million"

Cancellation of Golden Globes leaves fashion designers in a funk:
"The two-month-old Writers Guild of America strike has turned Sunday's Globes ceremony into an actorless, fashionless news conference. It also threatens to curtail or even cancel the Academy Awards on Feb. 24 . . . "We will miss out on new talent that could be exposed and global fashion trends that can trickle down, such as vintage, customized, embroidery, a new color palate," said Tom Julian, director of trends at McCann Erickson and fashion expert for oscar.com. "These images do not go away."

Natalie Portman to launch Vegan Friendly line of shoes:
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"In a collaboration with New York shoe boutique Te Casan, Natalie's very own collection of leather free shoes will preview on January 15th - with 5% of all sale profits going to charity."

01/09/08: Cracks In The Facade

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2:02 p.m.
I found the article below both illustrative and sobering -- this is the mindset that luxury manufacturers will have to battle throughout the year:

Pret-à-rapporter: saving your pound

"I've spent the past couple of weeks trying to train myself not to spend. January is always a dodgy month, but this year it seems exquisitely un-chic to be thinking about splashing out on new stuff when all we're hearing are tidings of financial doom lurking just round the corner."

All the talk of recession is hitting home, and where it's hitting hardest is the mainstream middle-class consumer that luxury houses have so aggressively courted for the past decade. Cutting up credit cards? Training yourself not to spend? Only going for what's on sale? These can't be welcome words to a fashion conglomerate CEO's ears.

But perhaps this is my favorite part, where the author helps steel her resolve against spending by recalling the fashion disasters she witnessed during the Spring/Summer fashion exhibitions:

"At times like these, you never quite know whether it's you or the designers who have gone mad. Is that garment before you not one of the most absurd proposals ever to prance upon a catwalk? Occasionally, you dart your eyes around the auditorium, scarcely able to believe that the audience isn't laughing out loud.

"And gosh, looking back at the spring/summer shows, there really were some stonkers out there - clothing apparently designed without a whit of a thought to flattery or practicality . . . Yet, in so far as the sight of them has temporarily put me off rushing to the shops, I'm grateful."

Perhaps she was referring to the mostly drab and ungainly (if not unwearable) Prada Spring/Summer 2008 collection:

Obviously, they didn't get the Lagerfeld memo about refusing to hire models models that are too thin.

On the other side of the beauty spectrum, Gwen Stefani showcases the "IT" dress of Spring 2008 in her new music video. The Dolce & Gabbana confection that was deservedly the talk of the Milan fashion shows makes its appearance around minute 2:28, and is the best feature of the video:

Oh, what a cruel fate to be a star outshone by mere silk and chiffon. Gone are the days when record companies showered money on promotional videos. I think nearly the entire budget was blown on that one dress, since the rest of the time Ms. Stefani mostly twirls about in unremarkable constumes in unimaginative settings. Hello -- a train station, a powder room and a mock Louis mansion? Pffft!

What's the point of being an international pop sensation if you're just going to trot out a bunch of tired old visual cliches? Even Paula Abdul had the decency to borrow from Bob Fosse (but she certainly could have used a bit of Dolce & Gabbana magic . . . sometimes I forget what was being pushed as "cool" fashion in the eighties. Quel Horror!):

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