Bulgari Black

I have to admit to being a bit perplexed by the fuss around Bulgari Black. I'd been hearing about it being a dark, almost rubbery fragrance -- urban, modern, even edgy. Bois de Jasmin raved about its rubber and smoke, stating that it's "one of the most sensual fragrances . . . thrilling, smouldering and daring" and a fragrance that reminded her of Marlene Dietrich; The Perfume Critic writes that it "starts out a little harsh rubbery (not in a bad way, though), and ends up with a nearly leathery vanilla-heavy base" and Robin at Now Smell This annoints it as "one of those masterpieces of weird" -- yet I find it difficult to understand how something that smells like black tea leaves mixed with vanilla sandalwood can be considered even slightly thrilling, rubbery, leathery or weird.

Maybe it's because Bulgari Black was released in 1998 and the world of niche perfumes has since caught up with and surpassed it in matters of weird and wonderful, but this smooth, sandalwood and black tea perfume is about as edgy as a cashmere sweater on a crisp October day in the Hamptons.

In other words, don't fall for the hype.

Bulgari Black is considered a unisex fragrance for a reason -- it's floral and vanillic enough to satisfy the uptown girls while including just enough sandalwood and oakmoss (not too much, mind you) to make the gaggle of metrosexual dandies slumming it at the local dive pub feel daring; however, If you're one of those people (like me) who honestly enjoys the smells of rubber, leather and smoke, you'll wonder what the hell everyone else is talking about.

For a real rubber, leather and/or smoke experience that will truly veer into the wilds of the weird, try Pascal Morabito Or Black, Olivier Durbano Black Tourmaline or Comme des Garcons Synthetic Series Tar. Bulgari Black smells like a prissy little poseur in comparison to all three.

Marlene Dietrich would not be amused.