Let’s face it, Patchouli has suffered a bad rap. While used for centuries in the production of classic perfumes, recent decades of dreadlocked, white-suburban, American pot smokers dousing themselves liberally in the stuff in the delusion that it covered the reek of bong-water and cannabis resin (not to mention a lack of bathwater, soap and ambition) helped make patchouli the unfortunate punch-line of the fragrance industry. No self-respecting, high-end perfume could afford to embrace its earthy charms for fear of mass ridicule.
But not any more.
Having torqued out on soapy florals and candied-fruits, perfumers are now mining “The Patch” for new veins of inspiration, sprucing up its shabby reputation and burnishing its positive credentials in the process. Instead of just a cheap, pungent oil whose sole purpose is to disguise other, more unpleasant odors, patchouli is making a welcome reappearance as a distinctly noticeable base in mainstream fragrances, as well as playing its own starring role in numerous cult perfumes on offer from respected niche fragrance companies.
It may all be just a cynical nod to the retro-cool craze that’s overtaking the rest of the fashion industry as I type this, but the old adage still holds true: what was once tired is now fresh again, especially for a generation of fragrance consumers blessedly free from the burden of patchouli’s more unattractive tie-dye and dim-bulb hippie associations.
Comme des Garcons Luxe Series Patchouli is a prime example of this new starring-role patchouli — at $190.00 an ounce, and boasting the incorporation of “the highest quality” Sumatran patchouli (and I suppose we’ll just have to take their word for it), CdG Luxe Patchouli is warm, richly layered and exceptionally polished from front to finish.
Whereas Le Labo’s terrific Patchouli 24 has a charred-wood quality that steers it in a darker, more unexpected direction, CdG Luxe Patchouli is nothing if not a smooth operator all the way through, definitely in the spotlight yet respectfully sharing the stage with a lush procession of incense, bourbon, dry wood, a touch of leather and a dash of salt.
CdG has always been a perfume-connoisseur’s best kept secret, creating strange and often wonderful fragrances for a niche market hungry for more than spices and flowers. With the Luxe series, and especially so with their Luxe Patchouli, it appears that CdG is aiming for a spendier, more high-profile customer. I don’t know if patchouli is what that spendier, more high-profile customer necessarily wants, but this particular number is certainly a worthy consideration — a resonant parfum with a beautifully designed bottle that wouldn’t look at all out of place on a table next to Chanel No. 5 and Robert Piguet Fracas.
The emerging wealthy of India and other parts of Asia might just snap this limited edition fragrance right up.
You can see more photos of CdG Luxe Patchouli at the following link: Photos: Comme des Garcons Luxe Patchouli
