Serge Lutens Serge Noire

There are moments when I suspect that Serge Lutens perfumes have become that ubiquitous LV monogram bag slung across a million women’s shoulders — desirable for the name, reputation and marketing prowess rather than because it’s the best product on the market.

Just like an LV bag, a Lutens fragrance is well-constructed, uses good raw materials, is not easily accessible to the general consumer and will never be found in a discount bin, but LV bags suffer from being widely imitated and often outright counterfeited, diluting their impact while causing future products to seem already passe by the time they’re introduced into stores.

The same thing appears to be happening with the house of Serge Lutens. Lutens was once notable for blazing trails, but his competitors caught up and are now outpacing him while he busily tinkers along with the same tools, attitudes and what seems like an increasingly dated approach.

I’ve posted previously on three Serge Lutens perfumes: Borneo 1834, Muscs Koublai Kahn and Clair de Musc — all three are nicely crafted and executed with polish, yet I wasn’t moved to purchase a one of them. They seemed — boring, like a freshly drawn bath that one sits in alone. Relaxing, even comforting, but no fire and ice to mix things up.

Ditto for Serge Noire.

Serge Noire is an incense fragrance that brings nothing new to the already crowded incense fragrance table. Like an Olympic figure skater nailing the compulsories (patchouli, cinnamon, amber, smoky woods) but coming up short on the freestyle, Serge Noire is technically perfect with a rock solid program, but utterly lacking in vigor and verve. Lutens is coasting on his laurels with this one, pushing out a perfume that’s easy, casual, sweet and without an intellectually engaging bone in its body.

It should sell like hotcakes.

Speaking of intellectually engaging, there are rumors that Serge Lutens will be discontinuing Miel de Bois, the first fragrance from his line that he’s ever pulled from the market. I’m wearing Miel de Bois as I type this and it’s a dreadful perfume — sour and wonky in pitch. I can fully understand the decision to yank it as I doubt it sells very well, but even though I would never want to smell like Miel de Bois again, there’s an admirable spark of creativity to it, some aspiration towards an idea, even if not fully formed.

Serge Lutens Serge Noire is an empty suit in comparison.

Serge Noire arrives for sale in the United States in September of 2008.

UPDATE:

Incense fragrances I would recommend over Serge Noire:
1. Armani Prive Bois d’Encens — stunning simplicity. I still can’t get over how a fragrance so restrained can yet be so overwhelmingly lovely.
2. Montale Greyland — deep, rich, approaching mystical
3. Matthew Williamson Incense (original version) — Williamson’s original Incense perfume has been replaced with a bland imposter. If you can get your hands on a bottle of the discontinued stuff, you’re a very lucky human being. It’s a marvel of spicy, heady smokes and resins.
4. Chanel Sycamore — does the laid-back incense and woods routine with less self-congratulatory fanfare.
5. Elternhaus MoslBuddJewChristHinDao — considerably more expensive than Serge Noire, but it’s like wearing sweet white smoke across your skin.