Comments on: Serge Lutens: La Myrrhe, Arabie, Tubereuse Criminelle, Fumerie Turque, Chene

By: Nathan Branch

Nathan Branch — Wed, 20 Aug 2008 17:46:48 +0000

What’s strange, to me at least, is that I find the camphor in Borneo 1834 to be mildly pleasant while the menthol in Tubereuse Criminelle makes me ill.
Which reminds me, I was reading today (in ‘What the Nose Knows’) that 40% of German women interviewed found the smell of Vicks VapoRub to be edible. Perhaps that explains Tubereuse Criminelle — it’s for the Germans!

By: sharil

sharil — Wed, 20 Aug 2008 17:37:54 +0000

I’m a woman and I actually find Borneo wearable. Perhaps my skin magnifies the patchouli or camphor less? I will say that I apply it very judiciously. This is not a sprayer for me – one gentle dab from the stopper to the nape is plenty. I actually find this scent to be very comforting – perhaps it’s the medicinal quality from the camphor?

By: Nathan Branch

Nathan Branch — Mon, 18 Aug 2008 09:08:16 +0000

Yeah, I found Borneo 1834 to be an interesting take on the patchouli craze, but the BF put his foot down about it so there’s really no way of knowing whether I’d like it in the long run. It’s kind of funny that you say “that is a tough mofo to wear” as I actually found it much much easier to wear than Tubereuse Criminelle.
I thought of giving Tubereuse Criminelle another try, but the mentholated rub aspect lasted way too long and made me literally sick to my stomach. I pushed a sample in front of the BF’s nose and he recoiled as if something poisonous were about to bite, so, smelling like tuberose paint fumes is a no-go in this household. Actually, paint fumes themselves aren’t part of my “what I consider an appealing odor” vocabulary.
If you tell me you also used to love sniffing the Elmer’s glue bottles in elementary school, I’ll have a far better understanding of where you’re coming from.
FWIW: I can easily see why Chene is liked and appreciated, it’s just not much liked and appreciated by me. The dryness is where I get that transparent citrus — and by “transparent” I mean “there but unnoticeable” . . . the citrus comment was really more in support of my random theory of a clean, soapy chypre than anything to do with Chene itself.
I think Chene is nice enough, but, you know, when someone describes something as “nice” . . .

By: Billy D

Billy D — Mon, 18 Aug 2008 08:36:06 +0000

You LIKE Borneo?? I can admire it, certainly, but that is a tough mofo to wear. I never quite got over the fact that it felt like it was wearing me.
You’ve gotta give TC another chance. I recently discovered it, and I really love it. I never thought there’d be a tuberose I felt I could wear comfortably, but that menthol really gives it a butch kick for me. To me, it smells like tuberose paint. Love it.
Fumerie Turque and Chene are two of my other favorites from the line, but your description of the latter seems remarkably different from what I’ve gotten from it. Cute? Citrusy? It’s probably one of the driest fragrances I’ve ever encountered (Turin called it pencil shavings). It does have a sort of saw-dusty quality to it, but I love the smell of oak. Of all the Lutens, it’s probably one of the simplest, which is why I haven’t brought myself to buy a bottle yet.
Seriously, retry Tubereuse Criminelle. Personally, I wish the rubbery top would stay around longer.