JALAINE PATCHOULI: a pure perfume oil that comes in a splashy 6ml cut-glass bottle with a crystal cap, Jalaine Patchouli is soft, warm and sweet — all at the same time.
Others have commented that this is really an amber/vanilla/musk fragrance rather than anything patchouli, and they have a point — the patchouli aspect is merely background chatter for the sweet, creamy party kicking into gear, but its presence adds arguably just enough depth and weight to keep the whole affair from drifting away on the next cloud.
Not a hippie-dippie, tree-hugging bone in its body, Jalaine Patchouli is for girly girls (and the people who love them).
You can find my previous review for Jalaine Vetiver here.
PROFUMUM FIORE D’AMBRA: Starts off as a powdery soft, pleasantly sweet amber perfume and crosses the finish line as a musky, woodsy fragrance shrouded in a lightly powdered veil.
Layers of cinnamon and clove (or what the manufacturers call “opium”) add a bit of spice, with the ambergris at the base (and it smells like the real deal) diffusing like clockwork to achieve an earthy and sophisticated finish.
Fiore d’Ambre is restrained and feminine — nothing wild, experimental or unusual, but anyone lucky enough to lean in close will think you smell intoxicatingly lovely. In fact, I think I’m getting drunk on it as I type this . . . *hiccup*
JOSEF STATKUS EAU DE PARFUM: a casual (and allegedly incense-ish) fragrance created several years ago for Lithuanian fashion designer Juozas Statkevicius (Josef Statkus) and now offered for sale in the U.S.
Josef Statkus EDP doesn’t tread the gothic, smoky or church ritual incense paths; instead, it’s a little sweet (benzoin, amber) and somewhat earthy (coriander, musk), infused with blonde wood notes frosted with a transparent vanilla. The presence of jasmine also serves to enhance its muskier tones.
This started out as an attractive enough perfume, but several hours later, the center turned kind of cumin-musty and off-puttingly sour (which would explain why it’s supposedly Anna Wintour’s favorite scent) before moving into a vaguely vanilla-ish drydown. Less feminine than Jalaine Patchouli, and not even close to being in the same league as Profumum Fiore d’Ambre.
A customer review at the Lucky Scent website states that Josef Statkus EDP “smells as if someone sprayed on Dune by Christian Dior, and then dabbed some patchouli oil over it.” Not even very good patchouli oil, at that. So, yeah, there you go.
REGINA HARRIS FRANKINCENSE MYRRH ROSE MAROC PERFUME OIL: If you’re looking for an incense perfume, this is a good one to at least take for a spin. A lovely rose accompanied by a deadly serious frankincense opens the door (dry, dusty, sparklingly woodsy) with the resinous myrrhe taking over about two hours in.
I’m ordinarily not a fan of myrrh, but Regina Harris obviously knows what she’s doing, and I find the myrrh utilized here to be more interesting and intriguing than, say, the one that gunked up the works in Aesop Mystra.
After about an hour of myrrh glory, the woodsy frankincense and powdered rose creep back in and then all three traipse merrily, hand in hand, down the incense path. Very nicely done. Soft, muted and plush with a rose note that even the staunchest rose denier can embrace.
I’m not particularly pleased that this is an oil instead of a spray parfum or EDP, as it’s very dark in color and dabbing it on could stain what you’re wearing if you’re not careful, but the high oil concentration keeps any potentially sharp edges (hello, myrrh!) rounded and smooth, so I suppose the format decision was worth it, all things considered.
Regina Harris is a makeup artist, sculptor, photographer, dancer, fashion designer and perfumer. She also designed the elaborate metal bottles for her fragrances. You can find her website here. You can also find more photos of the Frankincense Myrrh Rose Maroc bottle here: Photos: Regina Harris Frankincense Myrrh Rose Maroc oil
{ 4 comments }
Anna Wintour’s favorite fragrance? Then, surely, it must smell of starvation, broken dreams, and grasping ambition.
Honestly? That’s kind of what it actually smells like. It turns so sour and dour and difficult to love. I rubbed my skin nearly raw with soap on a washcloth trying to get it off, but it stubbornly refused to go anywhere.
Note to the Deev: Profumum Fiore d’Ambra is one I think you would like with no hesitation. Classic beauty as updated for the 21st century.
Mmmm, I have and love Jalaine Patchouli and Profumum Fiore d’Ambra. I too was underwhelmed by the Josef Statkus – CdG Avignon and Heeley Cardinal were far superior and cheaper to boot.
You know, I had a sneaking suspicion that Fiore d’Ambra was already well ensconced in your collection. It screamed “Tara!” when I smelled it.
And you’ve previously mentioned your love of Jalaine Patchouli, which is why I was happy to give a test run. I knew it wasn’t going to be a bad experience.