Stephanie de Saint Aignan Un the Au Sahara and Karl Lagerfeld Kapsule Woody

by nathanbranch on December 23, 2008 | COMMENTS

SDSAKL.gif

STEPHANIE DE SAINT AIGNAN UN THE AU SAHARA: Au Sahara was a bit of a surprise. I am not a fan of the smell of tea, and less a fan of the smell of tea in fragrances, but I am a fan of Paul Bowles’ novel The Sheltering Sky and Un the Au Sahara is alleged to have been inspired by Bowles’ simultaneously stark and sumptuous prose — so much sun, sand and heat, so little emotional warmth.

The Lucky Scent website states that Un the Au Sahara is a tribute to love in the Sahara desert, but that’s film director Bernardo Bertolucci‘s mangled interpretation of the story. Bowles’ original vision depicts a jaded, adventure-seeking couple’s ultimately futile attempts to survive the brutal, dehumanizing forces of nature while still reeling from the sucker punch of culture shock. The last section of the novel, where the husband dies in the middle of nowhere and the wife is carted off by a desert Arab to be his shiny new toy, isn’t necessarily the stuff of perfume and poetry . . . “Hmmm? This? Oh, it’s a perfume that’s based on a novel about death, psychological despair and sexual imprisonment in the Sahara. You like?”

But back to the fragrance — it’s actually a nice enough piece of work, the tea note is low and sweet with a hint of mint, like a dark, sugared brew, and there’s a dusty, spicy quality that blows through the heart of it. The patchouli in the base is wooded and dry, and I found the whole thing to be a very comfortable, wearable example of mildly exotic, unisex perfumery, like sitting at the weathered table of an outdoor cafe on the side of a sun-baked Moroccan street. In fact, if anyone were to ask me, “Hey, do you think I should buy a bottle of Un the Au Sahara?” — I’d say, “Sure, why not? And you can hang out by me once you’ve sprayed some on!”

But this Sheltering Sky nonsense? They might want to rethink that angle.

Video clip below from Bertolucci’s romanticized film version:

KARL LAGERFELD KAPSULE WOODY: Resembles wood the way an abstract portrait resembles its human subject — kind of, but only if you squint.

Still, one has to be grateful that they named the collection Kapsule; having to type “Karl Lagerfeld Woody” with a straight face would have been simply too much to bear.


{ 4 comments }

Tara December 23, 2008 at 3:00 pm

ROTFL… Karl Lagerfeld Woody. :-0
As for the Sheltering Sky, loved it (the book). Paul Bowles was such an interesting character. I just finished “No Mercy” by his friend Redmond O’Hanlon, which details his trip into the interior of the Congo, and at the end describes their final hospital stay together when Bowles was dying of AIDS and O’Hanlon had hepatitis. Quite a good composer too, Bowles.

Nathan Branch December 23, 2008 at 5:20 pm

Yeah, hated the film version. About twenty shades of horrible.
There was a really good biography of Bowles and the literary group that was hanging out in Tangiers at the time — “The Dream at the End of the World”
If you like Bowles, you’ll really like this biography.
Note: A commenter wrote to correct me on the geography. The book is subtitled “Paul Bowles and the Literary Renegades in Tangier” which should have at least jogged my memory that it was not Algiers, as I had originally stated. Bowles lived the majority of his life in Tangiers, though I’m certain he spent at least two minutes or so in Algiers, so that’s my excuse and I’m sticking with it! Well, that and I read the biography, like, twenty years ago and memories from that long ago have started getting hazy . . . where’s my anti-aging pill?!!
And Tara — Wikipedia states that Bowles died at the age of 88 from heart failure following respiratory problems, and while that doesn’t necessarily preclude AIDS, I haven’t found an official mention of Paul Bowles dying of AIDS. Are you remembering the book you read correctly? You know, like how I remembered the Algiers part of “The Dream at the End of the World” . . . :)

Marin January 4, 2009 at 12:39 am

Dude. I can’t keep a straight face looking at Karl Lagerfeld. Now I’ll always add “Woody” mentally and it’s gonna be chaos… chaos, I tell you.

Nathan Branch January 4, 2009 at 11:18 am

Tell me about it. I’m afraid the Lagerfeld legacy won’t be quite what Mr. Karl has in mind.

  • Other Shops & Sites

  • 20 ltd.
  • 25 Park Fashion
  • Agent Provocateur Lingerie
  • Alexander McQueen
  • Alexander Wang
  • Aloha Rag
  • Ami Ami Boutique
  • Amy Brill (Sweaters & More)
  • Anastasia Boutique
  • Anya Hindmarch
  • Anya Ponorovskaya
  • Augustina Boutiques
  • Balenciaga
  • Bambas Handbags
  • Basil Racuk: Fine Leather Accessories
  • Be & D Handbags
  • Bergdorf Goodman
  • Betsy Bensen Metalwork Jewelry
  • BillyKirk Artisan Leather Goods
  • Bing Bang Accessories
  • Blackbird Boutique
  • Black Hound Bakery NY
  • Blue in Green: Men's Fashion
  • Botkier Bags & Shoes
  • Bottega Veneta
  • Browns Fashion UK
  • Bryna Nicole Bags
  • Bulgari
  • Burberry
  • Catherine Malandrino
  • Chanel
  • Chick Downtown
  • Clara Kasavina
  • Coach
  • The Corner (designer fashion)
  • Couture Lab
  • Creatures of Comfort
  • Cycle-Two
  • DAVIS by Ruthie Davis
  • Decades
  • Decades Two
  • Derek Lam
  • Devi Kroell New York
  • Diabro
  • Diane von Furstenberg
  • Diesel
  • Dita Eyewear
  • Dover Street Market
  • DSquared2
  • Edward Bess Cosmetics
  • Elle
  • Erik Schedin
  • Fashion ID
  • Fashionwatch.tv
  • Feng Junk Fashion Accessories
  • Flutter by Jill Golden
  • Franco's Fine ClothierFurla
  • Future Classics Fashion
  • Gargyle
  • Georgina Goodman
  • Ghost Boutique
  • Gilt Groupe
  • Giorgio Armani
  • Giuseppe Zanotti
  • Glam.com
  • Gucci
  • Hard Graft Accessories
  • Haute Look
  • Hermès
  • Iosselliani Jewelry
  • Jake Fashion Boutique
  • Jane Bolinger
  • J Brand Jeans
  • J. Crew
  • Jimmy Choo
  • John Bartlett
  • Kabinett & Kammer: Special Objects
  • Kate Spade
  • Kevyn Aucoin Cosmetics
  • Kooba Handbags
  • Lacoste
  • La Garçonne Boutique
  • Laudi Vidni DIY Handbags
  • Le'Bulga handbags
  • Le Silla
  • Linea Pelle
  • Loewe Bags & Accessories
  • Longchamp Paris
  • Lorelei Bags
  • Louis Vuitton
  • Luisa Viaroma Boutique
  • Madewell Clothing & Jeans
  • Marissa Collections
  • Marni
  • Mast Brothers Chocolate
  • Matches Fashion UK
  • Matthew Williamson
  • Me Me Me Boutique
  • Michael Kors
  • Michael Marcus Cosmetics
  • Mona Moore Runway Fashion
  • Moscot Eyewear
  • Mulberry
  • My Catwalk
  • My Theresa Boutique
  • My Wardrobe
  • Need Supply Co.
  • Neiman Marcus
  • Net A Porter
  • Nordstrom
  • Occulter (experimental jewelry)
  • Odin New York
  • Oki-Ni Men's Fashion
  • Opening Ceremony
  • Otte NYC
  • The Outnet
  • Pamela Love
  • Paul Smith
  • Pendleton Wool
  • Pollyanna Fashion
  • Polyvore Trends & Styles
  • Poste Men's Shoes
  • Ralph Lauren
  • Reborn
  • Refinery 29
  • Roberto Cavalli
  • Ron Herman
  • Ron Robinson
  • Rush Patisserie
  • Saks Fifth Avenue
  • Salvatore Ferragamo
  • Scoop NYC
  • Scotch and Soda
  • Searle
  • Sergio Rossi
  • Shoe Runway
  • ShopBop
  • Stella McCartney
  • Stubbs & Wootton
  • TenOverSix Accessories Boutique
  • Tobi Fashion
  • TopShop
  • Tory Burch
  • Trippen Shoes
  • Valentino Online
  • Valet Magazine (Men's Style)
  • Varda Shoes
  • Verso Fashion & Fragrance
  • Vintage Sunglasses
  • Vintage Textile & Couture
  • Vivre Boutique
  • VPL
  • We Are Handsome Swimwear
  • Worthwhile
  • Yigal Azrouel
  • YOOX
  • Yves Saint Laurent
  • Zappos Shoes
  • Zoe Boutique