Soivohle': Underworld and Tobacco & Tulle
Soivohle' is an Ohio based, small-scale boutique perfume house founded by artist Liz Zorn, producing both all-natural and "modern" (synthetics included) fragrances by hand. The two scents I'm testing today are from her all-natural side of the aisle.
TOBACCO & TULLE: Sometimes, with fragrances, I feel like I'm the equivalent of the wine-snob, where I roll the liquid around in the glass and sniff at it and say things like: "Hmmm, I'm getting the smell of dried cherries, a bit of rose, some leather and maybe gravel -- do you smell gravel?" when all that's in the glass is the juice from grapes.
The fragrance and wine fields can be similar in this respect, since the best of perfumers and vintners strive to create impressive illusions through the art of combination. Tobacco & Tulle is a prime example of this. I can say: "I'm getting a whiff of sawdust, a faint layer of dark chocolate, and the retro scent of pipe smoke during a tromp through a wild forest" -- when the hand that's being played is actually a royal flush of tobacco, tuberose, ambergris, hyrax and oakmoss.
Huh. Who'd of thought?
From what I would have assumed is a hodgepodge of twos, sixes and fives (1. whale vomit; 2. goo scraped from the musk sac of a farmed animal; and 3. folded spindled and mutilated vegetation) comes a jackpot play that stuns observers and rakes in all the chips on the table.
It's also five hours later and the all-natural Tobacco & Tulle is still going strong, radiating a golden, lightly toasted aroma that belies its humble origins. Thanks, ambergris!
Anyone who's been hunting for a high-quality feminine tobacco fragrance can park their cash at Liz Zorn's doorstep. The fact that it's an all-natural is just icing on the cake, and kind of blows my mind.
UNDERWORLD: The Soivohle' website insists that Underworld doesn't have anything to do with vampire movies or Greek mythology, and more's the pity, because any creative piece benefits from a backstory.
Fortunately for Soivohle', though, Underworld is fully capable of standing on its own. While Ms. Zorn states that Underworld is primarily a story of vetiver, the grass with its roots deep into the soil, there's a delicious, balsamic current that flows through the base and makes it read more like an earthen, wine-soaked amber than an essay on grasses and roots.
Not as dry as Tobacco & Tulle, but just as deeply satisfying, if not more so. Again, I'm at five to six hours and Underworld is still busting along. Whatever happened to the idea that all-natural fragrances have a lifespan of one to two hours, tops? Apparently, Liz Zorn didn't get that memo (and god bless her for it).
Wrap it up: I can't recommend one over the other -- both Tobacco & Tulle and Underworld are terrific in their own fashion. If you prefer a dustier, woods and musk scent, then T&T is so totally your bag, but if you're in the mood for a dark, earthen balsam (with even a little bit of rose), Underworld will fit your bill and blow out the light bulbs on the marquee while it's at it.
VEERING INTO PHOTOS:
In related news, here are some photos of a 1/2 ounce bottle of the Leather Essence from all-natural Berkeley perfumer Mandy Aftel (Aftelier).
The Aftelier website lists the Leather Essence for sale in only 2ml bottles, but after trying it out, I liked it so much that I asked if it were possible to purchase it in a larger size bottle. The answer, thankfully, was yes.
The Aftelier site describes the Leather Essence as "sexy and warm with notes of amber and other balsams. Perfect for layering with other Aftelier fragrances to add a clean, sexy depth." No kidding. It's also perfect for layering with just about any fragrance you'd care to slip a rich layer of warmth underneath -- it's the bomb when paired with the likes of Shalini:
OFF TOPIC (but fun for ME!):
Hey! Look whose review of LesNez L'Antimatiere got quoted for the new LesNez website:
click photo for larger screenshot
15 Comments
Oooh, the Leather Essence looks lovely! Hopefully my samples will arrive soon. It looks like a winner.
said:
Very much so! I'm thinking you'll appreciate it quite a bit. I'm excited over how it gives me the means to wear little worn scents much more often (for example, I love my Bolt of Lightning, but hardly ever wear it -- I layered it yesterday over the leather essence and it was terrific).
A true win-win situation.
Aftelier, oh, Aftelier, you have such marvelous packaging. That purple and orange tissue makes me want to redecorate something.
Would a Mini Cooper look good in purple and orange?
Y'know, I was disappointed that Underworld had nothing to do with vampires, but it occurs to me Underworld is a great name for something that is ostensibly "...a story of vetiver..." It's almost a shame pop culture overshadows such cleverness. Even if I do like vampires of the non-stupid-sparkly variety.
said:
The packaging is marvelous indeed. The paper is so vibrant, the boxes a lovely blue/purple and the green label on the tube is too cool. I love the faded image of the people standing among the wildflowers.
Re: non-stupid-sparkly vampires: Kate Beckinsale in slick leather is as good an inspiration for a fragrance as I can think of. What should we call it? Oh, I know, how about: "Goth Chick -- Get Your Stupid Sparklies Out of My Way!"
She will, of course, drive a purple and orange Mini Cooper while blasting Sisters of Mercy on the car stereo . . .
So they did last on you after all? While I'm happy to accept differences of opinion, I am truly glad that the LZ worked for you...remembering our exchange a while back..
...yum, more leather...
said:
I was genuinely surprised. Five to six hours. Really nice pieces of work. Thanks, by the way, for the heads up. I honestly didn't expect to like them as much as I did. Good call.
Hey, no problem. Friends in Fragrance, right? ;)
Which brings up a point...I can't even turn it into a mock complaint...that Parfums de Nicolai Le Temps D'une Fête? Knocked Drama Nuui off of the "next green get" list. (Obviously, the "green net" is a little wide...) And a bottle is heading my way. Will be writing about that soon. Thanks back atcha.
said:
It's always good form to have a wide net.
And Le Temps D'une Fête -- So. Very. Pretty! I can't wait to read what you have to say about it.
Nathan! This little leather number sounds right up my furry alley. Mood-wise, it sounds like how I'd describe Le Labo Labdanum 18. Any crossover, in your opinion?
said:
Katie -- the Aftelier Leather Essence, while rich and wonderful and capable of standing on its own, was created primarily as a layering essence rather than as a full-blown perfume.
Labdanum 18 has a little more action going on from front to back, and is also a sweeter scent overall. I've worn the Leather Essence with Labdanum 18 and the combination is pretty darn great, but I prefer Labdanum 18 as a stand-alone fragrance.
I use the Aftelier Leather Essence to punch up the base of fragrances that are lighter or more floral (L'Artisan Timbuktu would be a good example), and because of its relative simplicity in comparison to an actual perfume, it can be worn with pretty much anything.
CB I Hate Perfume sells a number of essences (or Accords) that also work great for layering. Their Ethiopian Frankincense accord is stellar.
Thanks for that comprehensive analysis. Your brain is big and fun.
said:
Yeah, that's me and my brain -- a regular walking, talking clown car. ;)
Speaking of clown cars, I'm watching the video clip of your Dog Spa sketch from the Megan Mullally show . . . hilarious: "I smell Pulitzer!"
You know I really ate those doggy treats. I have no shame.
Got my Aftelier samples: Cassis, Blond Tabac and Leather. Cassis was rather ho-hum, but I really enjoyed Blond Tabac and Leather. They were the tiniest samples I've ever bought though - $20 for the three of them and they were less than 1ml each. Glad I didn't order more.
said:
Yeah, the Aftelier prices are on the hefty side, which is the only thing that keeps me from buying a whole lot more of her work, but I try to cut her some slack about it because she's located in California, which has brutal business and personal taxes.
Glad you liked the Leather Essence, and now I'm all curious about the Blond Tabac. Great, yet another high-priced Aftel frag to put on my wish list . . .
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