A few weeks ago, I tested a couple of Liz Zorn fragrances that she offers under her SOIVOHLE’ Naturals line. I was deeply impressed with both, especially as they were all-natural and yet exhibited as much depth and longevity as you’d generally find in a synthetic-based fragrance, while blowing away most other all-natural brands.
I decided I’d spring for a bottle of Tobacco & Tulle, which is a bang-up piece of work. When it arrived on my doorstep, I was happy to see that time, thought and care went into the packaging and presentation, reminding me of the attention that Mandy Aftel lavishes upon the presentation of her all-natural Aftelier brand.
There are a few independent perfumers (who shall remain nameless) that could learn some lessons from both Ms. Zorn and Ms. Aftel.
This is what I wrote earlier about Tobacco & Tulle: “A royal flush of tobacco, tuberose, ambergris, hyrax and oakmoss . . . five hours later and the all-natural Tobacco & Tulle is still going strong, radiating a golden, lightly toasted aroma that belies its humble origins.”
Perfume Posse had this to say about T&T: “I adore this scent . . . It is interesting, hardcore and beautiful, everything I want my perfume to be.”
Below are some photos of the packaging and presentation for Tobacco & Tulle. The bottle was quite photogenic, and remarking that Zorn presents a cohesive vision for her brand would be an understatement:
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Take that, Andy Tauer! Oh… were we not mentioning names?
The fountain of red paper is making me swoon. I think this perfume is on my short list. The idea of tobacco and tuberose with the unifying factor of ambergris seems too good to pass up, but the pictures cement it in my brain.
Exactly! I mean . . . uhm . . . I don’t know what or who you’re talking about!
*blink*
That fountain of red paper is a delight, and appropriately frames the drama of Tobacco & Tulle. I think you’d like this particular bottle of scent a lot. It’s a pleasure to wear (and smell!) for both men and women. Hans would be forever grateful.
Doesn’t she do nice work? I’d even sacrifice the packaging for the depth of construction she brings to the bulk of her stuff, but my oh my the packaging is so fun.
Which reminds me…I ordered something myself recently…running off to the mailbox since I just heard the mail truck…
The packaging is just the icing on a very nice cake.
Oh! The Mail Truck . . . what did you get, what did you get?!!
But tomorrow is another day…
(It’s going to be a few LZ’s, including a samp of Tobacco & Tulle, which I’d been postponing. Done postponing. Damn the torpedos…I’m spending money as if I were the trusted accountant at some unsuspecting company.)
Heads up, everybody! The Shell is on a rampage . . .
But let me know what you think of the Tobacco & Tulle. It’s quickly vaulted into my top 10, and I wear it a lot.
I got it! And promptly set it aside
…but now it rests in the crook of my left arm…and I am totally digging the razor’s edge of skank that is happening in the opening. I know, I know…so much more is going on…that is true…I think you mentioned a toasted note, and “sweet” which on me is warm and ever so slightly honeyed…I am anticipating more tabac in the drydown…oh, I am going to have to write about this.
I can see it in your top ten. To me, it works now in a deeper (civety? or am I learning ambergris?) fashion, a la L’Ombre Fauve… AHA! Another turn-of-the-earth scent…I so have a post coming.
I am meandering, but am in the middle of my first time here. I got all excited and had to let you know…plus Lucy used your pic of Tobacco and Tulle over on her site today (indieperfumes), so all sorts of swirl going on.
Excellent! I love that you’re grooving on it — it’s exactly the kind of scent that should properly incite a grooved response.
The skank you’re referring to is the hyrax, I believe; another cat musk that’s not as commonly used the musk from the civet cat. It has a more urinous note than faecal, so there’s a sharpness to it more than a depth. I think it works really well with the creaminess of the tuberose, plus the mellow tobacco and ambergris. Keeps the mix on its toes.
You’ll get the toasted ambergris soon, if you haven’t already. It extends all the way to the horizon in this stuff, and it just lasts and lasts.
Hyrax, eh? Sounds like Dr. Seuss…or a sandwich cookie…or a chemical compound. (oh, wait…this is all about chemical compounds, no??)
Okay, true confessions time: last fall, a perfumer brought out two blends, basically the same, but with one difference. One used real civet. Guess which one had depth, interest, kick, and longevity? Oy.
You are right, though; there is extra sharpness to what I am picking up. And well suited to the mellow elements. (Band name? The Mellow Elements.)
Oh, good heavens. Spring has sprung, I’m on break, and my brain is all over the place. I promise I’ll focus in time for April Fool’s.
You’re making an April Fool’s promise?
Real civet in a fragrance is a marvel. Just a drop and everything is deeper, richer, more intense. Hyrax has that effect, but in a different way — tuberose, tobacco and ambergris are all rounded elements, but add some Hyrax to the equation and the mix gains some spike and spine.
Hyrax for perfumery is harvested with no harm to the animal. From Wikipedia: “Hyraceum is the petrified and rock-like excrement composed of both urine and feces excreted by the Cape Hyrax, (Procavia capensis), commonly referred to as the Dassie. After aging and petrifying over hundreds if not thousands of years, it is a sought-after material that has been used in both traditional South African medicine and perfumery.”