Quick Sniffs: Mona di Orio Amyitis, Donna Karan Chaos, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Marc, Soivohle’ Purple Love Smoke

MONA DI ORIO AMYITIS: After I groggily applied some Amyitis this a.m., I stumbled downstairs to get myself a much needed cup of coffee. Shortly after, the BF did some stair stumbling of his own, but when he turned the corner into the kitchen, he stopped in his tracks and made the dreaded face of disapproval: eyes narrowed, nose wrinkled, his mouth a tight frown.

“Do you smell detergent? he asked, a distinct note of pre-caffeinated displeasure in his voice. “Uh, no,” I lied, and went back to making myself some coffee as he sniffed distastefully at the air a few more times before shuffling off into his supercomputer lair.

It was the Amyitis, and wow did it smell like some kind of vaguely floraled laundry soap. I can understand the desire to smell fresh and clean, though I think Amyitis overdoes it a bit in its opening flourishes; however, like the other two di Orio scents I’ve tested (Lux and Nuit Noir), the evolution of Amyitis on the skin is like walking into an olfactory hall of mirrors — the basic scent reflects endlessly and from every conceivable angle until it finally reaches its exit.

What starts off like fresh laundry turns slightly musky (white-ly musky?) and almost tree-sappish before heading off into spring flowers underscored by the memory of frozen earth and wet grasses. I have to admit that this particular genre of fresh, green fragrance is not my thing, but if you’re presently on the hunt for a perfume that will play right along with the present transition from Winter to Spring, Amyitis, with its light burst of delicate buds, should do nicely — plus it has just enough dirt in its veins to keep it real.

DONNA KARAN CHAOS: I thought I’d like this more than I do. The reissued Donna Karan Essence Labdanum and Essence Wenge were both wearable and attractive, and so I assumed that the reissue of Chaos, with all its hype and heavy perfume-forum panting, would follow suit.

Not so fast, tiger.

Initially, Chaos was part of this morning’s “What smells like soap?” problem, and the one-two punch of the Mona di Orio Amyitis with the DK Chaos was almost just a bit too much to bear before breakfast, but while Amyitis later turns into fresh green buds, Chaos turns into . . . a spice and patchouli soap?

The Non-Blonde (my favorite resource for information on fragrances that entirely perplex me) describes the reissued Donna Karan Chaos as “elegant and poised. Yet, it’s sheer enough (much more so than anything I’ve ever gotten from the original) and easy enough to wear on a summer day.”

I think that’s probably a better (and more fair) summation than anything I can come up with myself, so I’ll leave it at that.

DAWN SPENCER HURWITZ MARC: Another classy men’s scent. Really, what is it with perfumers lately? I’m suddenly feeling the man-love and I find it almost disturbing. Is this all a cynical plot? A trick? Am I getting invited to party with the cool kids only to be cruelly ditched when the market turns back around and women start spending once again like credit card addicts destined for an episode of Tyrah?

Oh, who cares! I’m still today’s prom king, even if I’m covered in a bucket of pig’s blood.

You just can’t keep a good man down.

Speaking of which, Marc is said to be inspired by the bad-boy protagonist of the Pamela Clare novel, Unlawful Contact — a man who’s desperate for understanding, wrongfully imprisoned and still in love with his high-school sweetheart over twelve years later. He only takes her hostage because he needs to.

Everybody say it along with me: “Awwww!”

Scent notes for Marc are: bergamot, spices, spruce, frankincense, juniper berry, sandalwood, sage, ambergris, cedarwood, sandalwood, brown oakmoss, coffee absolute, leather, musk and sequoia. So it’s one spicy, woodsy, musky and definitely masculine brew. The only drawback is that it’s not particularly potent, and what kind of self-respecting, romance-novel badass has trouble with staying power?

Thumbs up for virility, thumbs down for longevity. But if you don’t mind reapplying throughout the day, then Marc is an excellent go-to scent for the modern guy.

SOIVOHLE’ PURPLE LOVE SMOKE: An all-natural fragrance from Liz Zorn that’s a bold riot of violets, ripe purple berries and what appears to be a very slinky patchouli infused with musk and resins for that languorous wood and smoke feel — it comes across like a cocktail of vigorous youth and base intentions.

There might even be some Immortelle tucked away inside of it (about 4 hours in, it exhibits a hint of that ham + syrup note that I associate with Immortelle), but I’ll forgive it the transgression. Just this once.

Whatever the actual recipe, Purple Love Smoke is highly individual and with great longevity. Wear it if you dare, but most especially if you’re daring.