We’re smack in the middle of New York Fashion Week, and the show that’s received some of the most positive buzz (so far) has been the Peter Som collection — a daring, vibrant display of color, texture and pattern that was like 1970′s bohemia meets the Park Avenue cocktail-party:
You got your tie-dye on my mink
Style.com: “Most looks worked a fearlessly mismatched mélange of florals and checks and Swarovski beading and tweeds and dyed furs and paillettes and marled knits and, well, you get the idea . . . The shift brought new life to Som … (and) It also gave a visible lift to showgoers, who are starting to realize they’ve wearied of skinny pants and big shoulders.”
L.A. Times blog: “While he doesn’t make clothes that are going to change the world, that could be the best thing right now. He knows his customer and he serves her well . . . It was refreshing to see a long skirt in a “trippy rose” crepe, worn with a ribbed knit sweater. High-waist, full-leg trousers looked good, too, as an alternative to the ubiquitous leggings, worn with a tie-front blouse and a purple fur chubby.”
Telegraph UK: “Think metallic, silk-jacquards, trench-coats trimmed with fox, silks printed in violet and pink florals, feather skirts with velvet waistbands, shimmering knits – and then imagine it all piled together, with wild, whimsical abandon.”
WSJ ‘Heard on the Runway’ blog: “On the way to the Peter Som show, a significant retailer told me that Peter Som is “too conservative” for his stores. The retailer should get a load of the turquiose Mongolian lamb coat that walked Mr. Som’s runway this afternoon. Conservative? Nuh uh.”
Rich hippie parade
FabSugar: “Som is emerging as the freshest mixmaster on the block . . . With an underlying bohemian vibe, separates were thrown together in a haphazard way, but retaining a ladylike air. Layers were often cinched together with hardware belts, furs were dipped in jewel tones, cardigans were essential pieces, and happy hats were an adorable accessory.”
NBC The Thread: “Som’s signature print-mixing was in full effect here, but seemed even more exaggerated — colorful check mixed with two types of tweed, metallic contrasted with a kaleidoscope print and fur, or in one instance, a tight blue rose pattern paired with an expansive pink rose-print skirt. Makes us wonder if all this print-mixing we’re seeing is somehow a reflection of the recession’s effect on dressing — folks are shopping their closets and coming up with new and inventive combinations.”
Fashion Wire Daily: “‘Kooky’ and ‘escapist’ was how Som described his glam rock affair of candy colored furs, mod floral maxi skirts, flowing chiffon dresses, long flared trousers, acidic plaids, swirling brushstroke prints, tie dyed ostrich feathers and pearlized petal paillettes . . . For those less keen on drinking the Kool-Aid cocktail of Muppet fur coats and mismatched patterns, however, Som still had plenty of luxe individual pieces.”
Strangely enough, the Peter Som Fall 2010 collection reminds me somewhat of the “pell-mell madness” of the first half of the Marc Jacobs Spring 2009 collection, only ditching the Frontier Woman influences for something more urban and sophisticated:
Pell-mell madness
As the NBC writer noted above, these wild, almost mad-hatter tea party looks are mindful of the fact that shoppers are cutting back on their purchasing, but still want something new without having to think about color and pattern limitations.
After all, if consumers are springing for only one coat a year or one dress per season (or less), then adopting the anything-goes attitude frees the consumer to impulse-purchase that amazing, vivid item they might otherwise have passed by, thinking, “Oh, it’s gorgeous, but I have nothing to wear it with.”
Problem solved: wear it with everything.
***Note: Embracing the mix-and-match mindset is good for discounters, too, as they’re more likely to sell past seasons’ merchandise if cash-strapped consumers feel that the Style Gods have officially sanctioned the “Wear What You Got” look.
